[blastoffinc]

I am looking to move my compressor to the other part of our building. There is a interior wall with a 1 car garage size spot beyond that wall(enclosed room with ventilation) I am wondering what you guys think would be the best way to plumb the air. It is about 50' back, then 25' over then through the wall and about 30' to the "compressor room". How about Galvanized pipe? Hose? I will be running my respirator off this line as well. Are there any types of pipe I shouldn't use for breathing air purposes?
I was thinking once I get past the interior wall I would use 1 1/2" pipe with a downward angle with drop-offs for moisture? Any suggestions would be great. I have a 375cfm compressor. The compressor is about 15' in front of the blast pots right now connected with a 25' 1 1/2" hose.

 

[blastoffinc]

any suggestions?

 

[Betterblast]

I used all copper pipe in my shop. It has never blown out and it's easy to solder together. I have no idea if it could be unsafe to breath air from it. I'm not certain who you ask that question to. I know galvanized metal gives off dangerous fumes if you weld with it. I think pvc would hold up and is probably inert.

 

[ausisoda]

I think copper would be a bad idea as it will go green on the inside and i dont think that **** would be good to breath wouldnt stainless steal be cheaper

 

[Betterblast]

I guess thats right about the copper. I never bought stainless so I don't know about price. What I liked about copper was I could easily possition a connector and solder it. I had trouble with black steel before that when I screwed it tiogether tight, the connection was faceing the wall. But I don't have to breath that air. I have seen flexible plastic in homes for air ducts. If it can take the preasure it might be a good idea and cheap.

 

[Railman]

Use black pipe. Run the line downhill (from source) with pipe saddle hangers found at any decent plumbing supply. There is a ceiling bracket, all thread drop, & saddle fitting. It's cheap, easy, & flexable. Put plenty of t's on the lines, so as to allow later line additions. Use a t's instead of coupler fittings, with a plug in extra hole. Using t's is cheap insurance over the cost of a coupler, & the risk of having to tear apart later to add a run. Put condensate filter at end of runs, prior to coupler outlets, at a height that's reasonable to get to. This is the industry standard for shop air lines. It's cheap, & it works.
Galvanized pipe is only galvanized on the outside, which simply doesn't help anything. Copper works, but is very expensive these days. Black pipe will last a life time, which is probably long enough for most of us.
Joe