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I went back to a house I put a stick roof on and saw this........

is it right or wrong? And why?


I will tell you my thoughts later in the thread.
The nails suck. I saw this in hardies video on how to install and the way the nails show permanently. This is why I would never use this. I don't know if the way the soffit is run is wright, but I'll try to find the video. It's right on their site.
 

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better to keep the holes to the front,less likely to get wind blown water up thru the holes,hard to tell from the pics but it looks like the angle wasn't bisected right,1/4 round or a groove in the facia be nice

Joe hates that stuff

did i win?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I always put the perforations to the outside because if the house was to be bricked - you'd lose 5 to 5 1/2" against the wall.

The young guy that did it had three pieces up before he was called on it by a guy I work with on occasion. He said - OH WELL, and carried on. GC didn't know any better and it was done like this.

The corner is actually true...its just the Azek fascia hanging down that makes it look bad.
 

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the way it was explained to me is you place the vents to the outside,
as wind blows against your house it goes up the wall and can drive moisture thru the holes as it hits the bottom of the soffit/wall intersection
keeping the holes to the outside reduces this

this is for any soffit vent ,not just hardie
 

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Why don't people READ the manufacturer's install instructions? It's soooo easy and it helps you do the job right the first time while avoiding warranty issues.

Here is an example: How my siders lay a 2x4 down as a spacer for roof to wall details? Well Hardi's install guide mandates a 2" minimum for that detail. I am sure they write it that way so that on the average install they will have no warranty liability.
 

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:eek:
Why don't people READ the manufacturer's install instructions? It's soooo easy and it helps you do the job right the first time while avoiding warranty issues.

Here is an example: How my siders lay a 2x4 down as a spacer for roof to wall details? Well Hardi's install guide mandates a 2" minimum for that detail. I am sure they write it that way so that on the average install they will have no warranty liability.

Actually they write it this way because they had warentee issues with it being down to the roof.
 

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He better hope there no brick or rock going up those walls or he won't have any airflow.
 

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Why don't people READ the manufacturer's install instructions? It's soooo easy and it helps you do the job right the first time while avoiding warranty issues.

Here is an example: How my siders lay a 2x4 down as a spacer for roof to wall details? Well Hardi's install guide mandates a 2" minimum for that detail. I am sure they write it that way so that on the average install they will have no warranty liability.
http://jameshardie.com/pdf/install/hardieplank-hz10.pdf

Here are the directions for our area according to the latest Hardie PDF.

We've always used a 5/4x but use a 2x4 now.
 

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Is anybody else noticing a difference in the Hardie products lately ? Our stuff is coming in yellow now with some climate related info. Also, on a current job in Galveston, we are using Hardie Wrap WRB, as well as hardie window tape. Nice stuff, even if it is really similar to Dow WaetherWrap.
 

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What is the right way to do it? I assume it would be with the vent to the outside,
You have to nail it somehow , so there are gonna be nails showing.
 

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Vent to the outside, nails set like in drywall, pushed in just enough. Impossible to get perfect. The textured touches up much better than the smooth.


We always bisect the corners and square butt field edges. Narrow crown staples in conjunction with nails really look clean as a finished product....
 
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