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The Deck Guy
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3,126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long story short, the HO initially wanted a gangplank to connect the back door to the patio that had no access.

That was a dumb idea, so I sold her on making a big deck that was actually usable and aesthetically pleasing.

We installed sleepers over the existing slab and framed flush girder deck to transition to the proper height.

Was it a PITA? Yes. Was the HO thrilled? Yes. Am I glad it's done? Yes. :laughing:

Decking is Azek Kona with TC-3s, Cortex, Radiance Rail and Metal balusters.
 

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The Deck Guy
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3,126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Excuse the crappy camera phone pics.

The site was a mess (this was a few weeks ago) and I didn't bother with nice pics yet since the deck was filthy due to everyone working on it.
 

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The Deck Guy
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice greg, is that Tom I see?
Yup...the man, the legend.

I referred him to the HO and I think they are now "an item". :laughing:

Whole lot of chit chatting going on, not too much siding going up...:laughing:
 

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The Deck Guy
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Looks 100% better than before.

I am curious as to the railing between the stair post and the middle post, looks kinda funky.
I see what you mean. Optical illusion of sorts because the post at the top of the steps is 45º to the other posts since it's a clipped corner.
 

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The Deck Guy
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've got to ask Greg, what' s with the footings showing through the fascia? Is that a design element?
No...it's a reality of a flush girdered deck where the outside rim is also the girder. No way around it that I know of because a cantilever won't work.
 

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We build things differently on the west coast. If I only had 8 - 12", we would still frame with beams and joists, allowing for a cantilever. It takes more footings, with smaller beams and joists, but that should be no problem with a mini and mixer combo.

Beams would be 4x4's on 4' centers, with 2x4 or 4x4 joists.
 

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No...it's a reality of a flush girdered deck where the outside rim is also the girder. No way around it that I know of because a cantilever won't work.

Top of footing at grade and then a stubby 4x4 or 6x6 to the frame behind the facia? Or is there something preventing that, that I'm not seeing?

PS.....I spy with my little eye....a Ryobi impact and case.
 

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The Deck Guy
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The ryobi is not mine. It's one of the guys'. He got so sick of me bashing it that he bought an lxt set last week.

I don't like using short posts if I can help it. We set girders right on piers a lot on low decks. I haven't posted with 4x4s in a while. Too rickety
 

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The Deck Guy
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
We build things differently on the west coast. If I only had 8 - 12", we would still frame with beams and joists, allowing for a cantilever. It takes more footings, with smaller beams and joists, but that should be no problem with a mini and mixer combo.

Beams would be 4x4's on 4' centers, with 2x4 or 4x4 joists.
we can't do it that way here. We can't use solid beams for some reason. Always gets shot down.
 

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That deck and the siding have improved the appearance of that little house immensely.

I would not be surprised if the cost of the projects is more than made up for in the increase in the value of the property.

Nice job.
 

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No...it's a reality of a flush girdered deck where the outside rim is also the girder. No way around it that I know of because a cantilever won't work.
one thing I do in this senario where there is fascia extends down past framing on a cast pier is i'll determine where on the pier is the outer framing edge and or corner if thats the case, and use a diamond blade in the circ saw set depth and a angle grinder to make a notch for the fascia to extend past. I've also done this to share footing/peirs on a level change on low/ground level decks
 

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The Deck Guy
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3,126 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
one thing I do in this senario where there is fascia extends down past framing on a cast pier is i'll determine where on the pier is the outer framing edge and or corner if thats the case, and use a diamond blade in the circ saw set depth and a angle grinder to make a notch for the fascia to extend past. I've also done this to share footing/peirs on a level change on low/ground level decks
Good idea. Never thought of it.
 

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Curmudgeon
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I've not been able to figure that one out. Out here, everyone uses solid beams. Maybe it has something to do with the wood species.

We also do very little notching, as that promotes rot. We use a lot more hardware though.
Definitely.
A yellow pine 4X4 is 90% likely to
have the center of the tree at
dead center of the 4X4.
I think they cut them from 6" logs!
Anyway they aren't as strong horizontally
as 2-2X4's and will develop checks.
 

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Curmudgeon
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Almost forgot, great concept and
execution Greg! :clap:
 
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