[bert0168]

Anybody have any success with patching holes in fiber cement siding?

If so, what did you use?

I am trying to look for alternatives to replacing the whole piece if I can make it look near decent.

If not, get out the prybar and sawzall :furious: :laughing:

 

[Jer]

Drydex works well for smaller holes.

 

[bert0168]

Drydex works well for smaller holes.

You can actually use that stuff outside?

It's about a 2" hole where the sump pump exits. If I can find a good patching material, I planned on filling the hole with spray foam and trimming it back below flush and patching.

Think it will work?

 

[rojigga]

Anybody have any success with patching holes in fiber cement siding?

If not, get out the prybar and sawzall :furious: :laughing:

Why would you need a sawzall removing a cement plank?

 

[bert0168]

Why would you need a sawzall removing a cement plank?

To cut the nails in the one above it.....

....now, any advice on the original question?

 

[WNYcarpenter]

We've foamed and used bondoor epoxy to patch holes before.

I think the bondo patch should be used as a last resort. Like a lot of patches, the paint always seems to flash.

For me it would depend on how obvious the patch will be, and how tight the working room is. If you're near the vents, condensor, meters, hose bib, etc...I think patching would be fine.

 

[bert0168]

Thanks for the help guys.
I am just gonna do it right and replace it.

Too bad it's blind nailed

 

[WNYcarpenter]

Thanks for the help guys.
I am just gonna do it right and replace it.

Too bad it's blind nailed

I've had good luck with 15 ga. finish nailer. I have other issues with Hardi-plank clapboards, so one of our processes is to face nail where the clapboards don't lay flat. Much better IMO than patching! Even carefully driven Maze nails work well.

 

[tccoggs]

Fein Multimaster is excellent for this. Use the carbide grit blade to cut out the bulk of the clap. If its blind nailed, you can usually stick a couple of wood shims under the next clap to give you a bit of clearance. The E cut blade works great for cuting out the nails.

I have replaced small 2 foot sections like this that were damaged by another contractor as well as full peices. Take you time and you can get the repair to look like new.

And yes, a 15ga DA stainless finish nail works well for face nailing, just watch the depth of drive. I use the spotnails brand of nails as they are available in smaller quantities at reasonable cost.

 

[Tom Struble]

its actually pretty easy to pry off a panel without cutting the nails
fold it up and wiggle the panel as you pull down,panel usually pulls free
use your flat bar to pull the nails or put the bar on top of the nail heads
and tap them in by striking the bar