The one we built that can most relate to this, took us around 5 weeks(8 guys). It also had a difficult deck in the back with 2 levels and a partial roof.We are hoping less than 4 weeks yes. Probably more like 3 but we'll see. I haven't seen the engineered drawings yet so that will determine a lot for me.
I have a lot of ideas about the stairs but need to confirm the finish/ trim with the expediter. Thanks for the offer Warren i might have to take you up on it
Its only a 40 mile round trip but its all back roads so it takes around 45 min to get there with my box truckObuckiO said:The one we built that can most relate to this, took us around 5 weeks(8 guys). It also had a difficult deck in the back with 2 levels and a partial roof.
I assume that's a radius balloon-wall in the back. Would you erect that any different from normal? Plus, it looks like a time consuming sunken floor in the Great room.
No matter what... you have a plate full. I would hope it's not a 100 mile or more round trip everyday.
The stairs are going to be carpet so all i have to worry about is the first floor flooring. As for the railing that is up to the designers and finishers, all we do is frame.Railman said:Your going to need to get the curved balcony details better defined than what shows up on the print you posted. It looks like a carpet balcony, & I would assume the curved stairs are open hardwood treads. The transition from hardwood to carpet at the top can be a bit sticky due to everyone not being on the same page as to how it gets executed. Some just carpet wrap a nose that's flush with the ply/osb. Some butt the carpet to the railing bullnose edging, much to the dismay of some building inspectors. Personally, I like the look of butting it, but it needs to have a wood filler, maybe 3'to 6", instead of foam pad at the nosing area, so as not to create a tripping hazzard.
The other thing I wonder about is that it's drawn as a continuous over the top rail from the curve stairs around to the 90 deg corner. That's a long way to go without a newel post. I'd put one at the top of the stairs at the curve miter, & again at the other end of the balcony curve, for a total of three across the balcony.
Looks like fun!
Yep we have plenty of room thats for sure. Normally we dont put all the rim on but since almost none of the joists are full span, it didnt matter. The lumber yard sent out a huge pile of joists but no cut list so i needed time to figure it all out. This is what our joist layout looks likeObuckiO said:It's good you have area to maneuver the fork-lift around though. Plus, for being a parade, it doesn't seem that congested either.
I assume you are saying most don't top plate the steal? I've never seen that and could imagine the hassle. One other thing I noticed(not a big difference), I've never seen all the rim board put on before the joists. I could see some advantage either way.
Anyhow, Now the fun part starts... Good Luck.
Yes. The install requires either solid joist blocking, or squash blocking. We choose squash blocking so the mechanical guys dont smash out all the panels. We just eyeball every thing straight and verify header placement before we cap it and then pull 16's as we gokiteman said:So with no beam plate and spliced joists, how are you doing the splices? Just the squash blocks?
Good point(on the rim).Normally we dont put all the rim on but since almost none of the joists are full span, it didnt matter. The lumber yard sent out a huge pile of joists but no cut list so i needed time to figure it all out. This is what our joist layout looks like
The beams are subbed out to a steel company and they fab and set them. If it were up to me, we would do it. At least it would be right, or our fault if it was wrong! The residential market has been flooded up here with steel companies that have no commercial work. Its sad because it forced a large exclusively residential company, that was good at it, out of buisnesskiteman said:Sounds like a plan. So what does anchor the free ends of the beams? It does seem to me to have some squeak potential. I've heard of it being done though.
I usually temp mine up on wood posts so I can brace them off the sill plate and set a little faster, then put in the columns after the joists are run. Something I learned when we had a boom truck setting steel to get him out quicker. Then I can fook around getting the columns set and leveled when everything is fixed and the guys are decking. My hearing is already wrecked, so I won't damage their ears when I'm banging on a post.
What, you don't trust the lines on the decking?:laughing: