And what, the air is cooled on the tower this is fed into desicant tablets. All at 400cfm. all day long in 90 degree heat at 80% humidity. at the end of the day I dump about ten gallons of water from the tank. Any questions
I can run three blast hoses at 135 psi everyday with dry air from these units. On a white blast job thats about 200 square foot per hose per hour on new steel. That is my bread and butter. The ADS 400S WORKS well. Im not in the mood to bull**** they work pa
No problems, My mind works faster than I can post and I get ahead of myself most of the time sorry about no captions. Will this kind of unit work for what you do? I have seen some after coolers on other contractors rigs, they think mine are to complicated. I have never spent any money on them in the ten years I have run them. Just had to add dessicant every three hundred hours
Dyer, I recharge it twice a season, last year I forgot and it was still half full with 1500 hrs on it. The unit takes about three hundred lbs. The only time the dessicant really ever goes bad is if it gets coated with oil when the seperator element in the air compressor goes out.
Here we go again. Sept. The biggest car rush. The shows are comming to an end and everyone wants to get their rod stripped and ready for the shows next year. Im jammed up. The nitogen market lost millions last spring, but the cost of new steel and intrest rates went down, this puts the big players on the build, cheap steel and an upswing on futures will Throw the big boys into astrnomical profits. Agrium-CPS has positioned itself as the winner. I dont know this, I feel it. I blast tanks, I go with the flo on the ground. If the guys at CPS Agrium ****ed this up call me up to because I made a**** load of money from thier tank inspection failures.
Really nice set-up you got there! :thumbup: Can’t say I’m at that point yet… My old employer (Navy Contractor) had 6 of the same blast pot you have with old air craft wheels on it to tow around the yard. They work really well! I think they ran 4? Guys off one blast pot. Air was no problem because they had Yard Air. (Unlimited Gov. Money for lots of In house air compressors) almost every tool in the ship Yard ran on air. Thanks for the info on desiccant tablets, up here in Maine winter time kills me with the water, I have heard putting an air drier on would help with freeze ups to. Last winter I put on a bi-pass on the air cooler, had one heck of a time with freeze ups! I’m building a compressor room this year. But once again I’m impressed with your business; it looks like you have a lot of time and money invested. Thanks for all the info in this web site, I’m sure your info has helped a lot of people.
The equipment I posted pictures of is not mine. That compressor drinks 7-10 gallons an hour. I run Ingersollrand 375's. I dont run the big compressors. My tank company says I should but I save alot every year on fuel. I have four 375's. They are each mounted on thier own rigs. One sand pot one guy. The abrasive for each pot is wrote down after every blowdown. I am known in the midwest for tank liners. We line more tanks than we paint the out sides of . I dont like to shuvel sand so we dont blow in any more than we than have to. I have taken pictures of all of my old trucks. The new and bigger equipment I dont show. The pics I took of the big rigs were to show what a real rig looks like
Still sounds like you got a NICE Set-up!
I'm own 2, 185 Leroi's, 1 soda pot, 1 Marco Pot, 230 cfm aftercooler, and water trap.
My son and I do run jobs together, My hope is that he can pick up on the trade to go out on jobs on his own. or blast at the shop while I'm out.
so far he's doing a great job, Like a sponge.
Just had another water a seperator made, biggr this time. try'd it yesterday on a small bridge that we did, Worked great removed a lot of water!!!
I'd love to go to a larger compressor, I was spoiled to learn blasting on a big hose with alots of CFM. My 185 just cuts it.
I have to do with what I got till I get making more money.
Thanks for exsplaining your picturs, some would not come clean about them.
General question, How can dry spray on zinc be stopped? Have a tank Im working on the coop opted for a bladder inside the tank and no **** containment. The tank was hydo-tested and it left behind a light layer of surface rust on blue steel. I told the coop to oil the tank but they insisted on a protective coating to stop the corrosion. I speced 90-97 zinc we blasted the interior coated it, we removed all weld spatter and white blasted all seems, Here is the deal as with all jobs it was a rush I wil admit I sprayed four to five foot out of the scaffold, the steel is covered but it is rough. The Bladder company says it may rip the felt during expasion and contraction. I wanted to use an epoxy but felt that one coat coverage would leave holidays.
Panderson, your always going to have some overspray with IO Zinc "Inorganic Zinc". I know that you were on the interior of a tank and the best time to really spray IO Zinc in when your in the shade and in a cool place because IO Zinc flashes off quick resulting in overspray. You can remove this overspray by screening the surface with metal screen wire from the hardware store. It is always done with IO Zinc. Plus, with IO Zinc the more humidity the better because all IO Zincs are moisture cure. One thing that you stated is that you did spray a fairly good distance from the surface and that is one thing that you want to avoid doing because you will make excessive dry spray that way. One other thing about IO Zinc is it does not like a lot of thickness. You do not want to exceed 6 mils DFT. If you do you will get what is called Mud Cracking of the coating due to the surface stress. You do not need a lot of thickness. Remember, Zinc is a METAL. It is applied for Galvanic Protection. If the coating gets damaged, it is self healing to a point. That is why it is used a lot as a shop primer now days.
If you had of asked me first before you done this job Panderson and if you would have told me that you were thinking of using IO Zinc then I would have probably refered you to use OZ Zinc "Organic Zinc". The OZ Zinc is a Zinc Rich Epoxy and would have been better suited to have used in the tank due to easier application and you would not have had the overspray issues that you are having now.
The simple fix for the overspray is to just get some screen wire and sand over the surface to remove the dry spray. You will polish the surface some but remember, the IO Zinc is a metal and it will shine when rubbed with a nickle, hence the nickle test to check for cure of a IO Zinc.
That zinc was used in Avondale Shipyard in the 80's I was just a helper then and I remember the painters hating that stuff. By the time I got handed a spray gun we were using primer coat /intermediate coat /finish coat, but none of it was hard to spray. Glad I missed that junk. I agree, it sure is nice to have these forums and people who know things.
Benny, the bladder people looked inside today the dry spray became a non issue. They were worried it was stacked up like on a spiral stair case in wind, I am a freak when it comes to quality on my jobs. I asked my Tnemec rep for a one coat system that could be immersion proof "Randy Bartz". He speced 90-97. They also coat fire water protection tanks with this. I also researched Keeler and long, Ameron and Carboline. The product is never supposed to come in contact with the zinc, so techincally it is a non imersion service right? The other companies would not certifiy thier zincs as Immersion grade so I went with what I know, because if the bladder did fail 90-97 would delay corrosion.
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