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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
What method do you recommend for finishing steel door frames, HVLP, Airless or by hand?
I've seen other units in the building rolled out poorly with residential gloss. I'm looking to do this the right way.
 

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First of all, I'm no painter. But do spray my own cabinet work. I had one job with steel frames that I ended up doing. I used my HVLP with oil based paint, and the finish was awesome!

Today I wouln't be using the oil paint, so can't really comment on how latex would finish up, but probably pretty good. I use flowetral in the latex.
 

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Thom
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from my experience you can spray latex fine with an hvlp sprayer and get a good finish on steel. If you haven't sprayed steel before, it works differently than wood. Because it absorbs zero and because it is so smooth, it will run and sag with less paint volume than a wood door. It's easy to apply to much paint. Have a brush ready until you get the hang of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks guys...

I understand the non-porosity of the metal and have the spray touch down. That's all I used to do years ago. Fix the walls, cover and spray. Lot of rehabs and bank-owned properties...

I've been allotted two days to get this done and wanted to approach it in the best way. I'd prefer to spray jambs, then tape off before spraying and backrolling wall primer but if the time frame won't allow it, I'll have to roll out the jambs.
 

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It's easy enough to do that with an airless, just use a fine finish tip - a 310 works well, just move quickly. Solvent prime lightly then 2 thin latex topocats. Should dry enough overnight for you to tape off with green and spray walls the following day. Just keep the coats fairly thin and it will dry.
 

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Have you tried the Graco FF tips? I find that I have to thin my material by 10-15% for them to work their best...other than that the tips will clog. Best to strain your material first as well.

A solvent primer hitting the drywall won't hurt it in the least.

For paint, we do not have an SW here, so I couldn't tell you anything about their paints. Durability wise, depending on the project i'll use anything from HP2000 to Cabinet Coat by InsulX, the latter being around $70/Gal. (contractor price).

Another option is to spray a pigmented pre-cat directly to the metal. Not something I would entertain if the place is occupied though, and if you go that route - DO NOT SMOKE ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR WORK. At least until the fog clears. Pre-cat's give the best finish with excellent durability and super fast drying but are dangerous to use. Make sure your insurance is up-to-date.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have you tried the Graco FF tips? I find that .

Another option is to spray a pigmented pre-cat directly to the metal. Not something I would entertain if the place is occupied though, and if you go that route - DO NOT SMOKE ANYWHERE NEAR YOUR WORK. At least until the fog clears. Pre-cat's give the best finish with excellent durability and super fast drying but are dangerous to use. Make sure your insurance is up-to-date.
The waterbased precat I'm looking at is :

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro...ducts/proindustrial-prectlyzd-epoxy/index.jsp
 

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Steel Substrate

The substrate being steel needs any rust removed, and primed. Just use grey for an oxide primer.
Latex works great with an airless. Clear base airless applied is really the only way to go for production.
I've sprayed many frames off or installed. If the frames are going to be scuffed by flooring or other trades just put on the one coat. Really they generally look perfect anyway. If your spraying finish on frames, make sure all caulking work is done properly.
If it is cool, and your in primary stages of construction, check your frames as your doing them. Using a razor knife, and sandpaper to sand runs makes for a bad day.
Follow the job specifications, whatever the architect wants.
 

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Pre-cat was excellent. Mixed results with the airless. It spits
I think they all do to one degree or another. Only way to avoid getting paint goop on you work is to do a continuous spray from one side of the frame to the other without breaking. Easier said than done though :laughing:
 

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Whatever material you choose. Be sure to sand your steel frames then wipe them down with laquer thinner to clean them. Be sure you use the laquer thinner.not regular. Paint thinner. The reason for this is paint thinner has oil in it. The idea of wiping your frames is too remove all dust and oils. Laquer thinner does not have any oil in at all so wiping down with regualr paint thinner. Really defeats the purpose of ur prep work... This is coming from a commercial painter which sprayed all frames in a thirteen story dorm unit for the university of maitoba there was 50 frames per floor and i was able to spray all 50 in one day. But if possible try to spray after installation and before doing walls for less prep there is usually alot of trade damage through instalation. And remember steel doesnt absorb paint so be sure to use low pressure and lighter coats.
 

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do ya ever get those times where you think ,, this can't be right, it's just too unreal,I just use latex paint on it and it seems fine , they used to have an oil galvanized primer but if latex works just as well why bother with the stink. I only use laquer thinnner for washing up equipment and even still the xylol is more effective. I don't know which stench is the most violating to my senses. The idea of wiping down anything with that stuff , like an entire university let alone a small building but not a continent makes me hurl, do they study health at that university? . Those union types took two weeks to paint a bathroom at the wifes place of work , I could repaint a 3500 sq house trim and walls in that time. I use the paint thinner to wipe off the stickers.. I get info from those commercial types , painters and it's like getting cosy with a pack of wolves, skip the wipe, it is hiding some other funky smell.
 

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I lightly sand the metal frames and clean them. I then shoot them with SW all surface enamel two coats and they look like glass. Very durable product that adheres too almost anything. Heck, I have to really scrub the paint off my hands when I get home.
 
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