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I have a question for you paint sprayers, do you guys ever spray walls and with no back rolling or are you always back rolling.thanks in advance
 

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Easy E said:
I have a question for you paint sprayers, do you guys ever spray walls and with no back rolling or are you always back rolling.thanks in advance
I spray a lot of apartments. We simply can't back roll due to volume. They look like crap when maintenance touch them up. I'd back roll in a residential setting. If you're spraying and back rolling anything other than flat it's still going to be hard to touch up. But we have a more critical view because we are looking at it all day.
 

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Accidental Painter
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I always backroll. You've got 2 guys onsite, both should be working. It doesn't slow me down one bit.

ALL my customers request it. They point out the stripes from the last guy.

I am routinely more expensive by a couple hundred bucks. Don't buy the hype that they just want it cheap. They want it cheap & good looking. Follow me on facebook & see the proof.

I love how nobody cares about rentals. It leaves so many burned customers for me to pick up.
 

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I like to back roll most of the time. A heavily textured wall will need some back roll to fill it all in. A smooth wall will be easier to blend any repairs if the original coat was back rolled.

Those that are against back rolling I imagine they have never painted stucco. Stucco is an always for back roll.
 

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Also if you think rolling can be done by anyone I would differ with you. One can destroy a paint job with crappy rolling. Lines from a sprayer look bad.....lines from a roller look worse.
 
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Ok, if you have a couple of flunkies (just kidding) and you pay them to do SOMETHING, have them backroll out.

If you're a one man band with an airless, FUK backrolling.

I've never had a job sprayed with an airless that needed or wanted backrolling. If you can't freaking finish a job by just spraying and need backrolling, somethings wrong with how you paint, and how you regard labor saving devices. OK? OK
 

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I'm a picky bastard on quality, and I prefer the even coverage and texture of the back rolled surface

Backrolling with an airless is about 10x faster than just rolling...To me, that IS a labor saving device.
 

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Ok, if you have a couple of flunkies (just kidding) and you pay them to do SOMETHING, have them backroll out.

If you're a one man band with an airless, FUK backrolling.

I've never had a job sprayed with an airless that needed or wanted backrolling. If you can't freaking finish a job by just spraying and need backrolling, somethings wrong with how you paint, and how you regard labor saving devices. OK? OK
I think your confusing the want to back roll with the ability to spray with great results. Just because someone back rolls doesn't mean they suck at spraying.

I usually am painting alone and I will still back roll. Like I said I don't do this always but most of the time. Also as mention with stucco.....ALWAYS back roll.

No one is calling you out...geez. Just giving the plus side of back rolling.
 

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Thousands of places get sprayed everyday without being backrolled. If you can't spray without backrolling to make the place look acceptable, then yes, something IS wrong with the way you spray. I've been spraying for decades and have never backrolled. I find it redundant and a waste of my time and energy. All my spray jobs turn out excellent.
 

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Thousands of places get sprayed everyday without being backrolled. If you can't spray without backrolling to make the place look acceptable, then yes, something IS wrong with the way you spray. I've been spraying for decades and have never backrolled. I find it redundant and a waste of my time and energy. All my spray jobs turn out excellent.
Not talking about acceptable. Talking about good.
 

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I have a question for you paint sprayers, do you guys ever spray walls and with no back rolling or are you always back rolling.thanks in advance
For the record, I always back roll walls and ceilings (except when spray painting popcorn ceilings). :thumbsup:
 

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I'm still new at spraying so I play it safe & backroll.

Besides, it's the first question asked when I mention spraying.Hell, they make a point to point out hollow core doors, closets, various walls that are striped like a mofo.

I am always looking for a faster, better way to do things. Time is $$

I have tried various pressure settings with the 515 tip, 313, & 211. I have tried the "crosstitch" method. I have tried double coating. I have tried no less than 10 different brands of paint. Sherwin williams, PPG, Behr, Glidden, Martin Senour, Pratt & Lambert, etc..

So please, I am BEGGING you, Tell me how you can 1 coat color match with zero visible stripes at a 45 degree view in broad daylight a day after its dried. Because I'll be danged if I have figured it out.

I have 500 gallons of practice in the last 3 months and I still can't figure it out.
 

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Do you spray horizontial or vertical?

You need to spray with your arm not your wrist.

I spray horizontially, then back roll.

Tom
 

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Tell me how you can 1 coat color match with zero visible stripes at a 45 degree view in broad daylight a day after its dried. Because I'll be danged if I have figured it out.
If you don't have airless issues (heavy trails from the spray tip), those stripes you mention are probably too much paint resin built up in one area. Over time (6 mo. cure time), those problem looking streaks will usually dry out significantly and be less noticable. BTW, going over light colors with same is usually no problem. It's when you're going light to dark or dark to light that it can look crappy, especially on smooth surfaces (like smooth wide lap siding).
One thing you can try in this situation (not seen in that YouTube video) is to mist coat a fairly good section, let it tack up slightly and then go back over it. Your first mist coat pass doesn't have to cover and will look awful, but the second pass will cover nicely and will keep an even coating of paint at your lap areas (this is different than letting it dry and going over it again, the wet edge factor is key). Also, stagger your lap areas if you can when doing the second pass. Finally, with todays so called "flat paints", they're so full of high quality vehicle resins, it's like spraying on a low sheen enamel, which can bring up streaking issues in the dried paint film (on smooth surfaces looked at from a 45 degree angle to the light). I propose that you can minimize these problems and not have to backroll, and still take a great deal of pride in your work.
P.S. The rig you own may have something to do with all this . Hopefully, not some dying airless in need of a gun rebuild or unit packings.
 
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