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Painting Contractor
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Have any of you ever actually used one of these? Or do you own one?

Paint Shaver

I spoke to a Benny Moore rep today about one and he said they have only ever sold 1 and the guy brought it back saying it sucked. They sell for $1300.00 at the local Benny Moore retailer, $900 or so direct from the manufacturer.
 

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Pro Painter
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I have used one before. They do work good on some smooth surfaces, but it takes A LOT of practice to get it right. Forget trying to set the guards and skim smoothly back and forth with it to remove paint. If the surface is bumpy they quickly become a major pain in the ass. You have to get a good feel for it, literally. Not for the faint of heart...this is not your average power tool. There is no leaning into this thing...it takes finesse. You will get swirls if you're not careful, and you can VERY easily gouge the living daylights out of whatever you're stripping. As with any other paint removal you'll have to sand the surface anyway, and this thing really can be alot faster than any heat gun in the hands of a competent professional. :Thumbs:

**EDIT** BTW, I think my old boss bought one for around $400....I'd research that price a little more before plunking down $900!
 

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The Paint Shaver Pro is awesome if you are doing clapboard. I find it very easy to use and adjust. Just follow the directions. I've only used it on clapboard rough sawn cedar and always follow with a random orbital sander. I have it connected to a HEPA vacuum for homes with lead paint. It saves soo much time and has already paid for itself several times over. I would highly recommend it. I purchased my Paint Shaver Pro here:

http://www.mcgrathshardware.com/paintshaverhepavacuums.html

and then went to the manufacturers site where I purchased the 16 Gallon Quite Vac:

http://www.aittool.com/

Combined I spent about $1,300 but it has been well worth it. I would only recommend getting it if you have at least one job that has a significant amount of scraping. I do belive that it's worth the price and I have no regrets.

Just make sure that you know that it is only for large surface areas. For corners etc. you will need to use a paint stripper or just scrape by hand. It won't be as useful on boards that are warped because you will almost use it like a grinder.

As for ease of use just adjust the blades so they are barely touching and removing the paint and then make small adjustments in and experiment with it. You should find it a worthwhile investment. Hit me back if you have any other questions!
 

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Used one on about a 4000 sq ft house redwood lap siding. It was horrible off extention ladders easy on the ground. The problem with the redwood was its a softer wood and the machine left swirl marks.So dont know about any other woods. But we was sanding the whole house to so the swirls wasnt to much problem. Pretty fast after u learn to work it. We got to of them but hopefully wont have to use them again. I would recomment some other type of removal. maybe belt sander, putty, vinyl siding..lol heat guns would take forever on a large home. My 2 cents
 

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I used the Silent Paint Remover: http://www.eco-strip.com/ProdStripper.html

I stripped a 250 year old home. Took about five days a side, on a salt box colonial with clapboard siding but it was very safe (lead paint) and took all the layers down to the wood. Problem is you have to hold it in place for 30 seconds at a pop and then scrape. Sounds easy but in the 90 degree heat after about two hours you are ready to hang yourselfI Good news is that they sell a bracket that you can hang from the soffit, but the bracket is not cheap.

Richie
 

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We use them here for removing bottom paint and sometimes gel coat on blister jobs. Works great for that.

Check on the type of inserts they use, if they are proprietory, replacements will kill you $$$ wise. If you buy them through your local machine shop, you can save about 70%.
 

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...jammin
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That's interesting

8 Amp, AC Only
• Variable-speed dial 3,300-4,500 RPM
• Fast, uniform, controlled removal of paint rom wood, compositions, many other surfaces
• Vertical & horizontal adjustments for uniform removal
• Uses tungsten carbide discs of 24, 36, 46 grit
• 100% ball bearings
• Adjustable side handle mounts right or left
• Standard Equipment: Paint remover, side handle #875042, back-up pad #18018, wrench #48233, 36G carbide disc #18027, allen wrench, and operating manual

SPECIFICATIONS
Power: 120 VAC, 60 HZ
Motor Amps: 8
No-load Speed: 3,300-4,500 RPM
Spindle Thread Type: 5/8 - 11 RH
Gear Drive: Precision Helical
Disc Size: 6"
Length: 10"
Net Weight: 9 1/2 Lbs.
Shipping Weight: 11 Lbs.

RELATED ACCESSORIES
Sponge Rubber Back-up Pad: - Model 18018
46 Grit: - Model 18024
36 Grit: - Model 18027
24 Grit: - Model 18030
 

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Paint stripping

I gritted my teeth and bought one of these to work on the oldest Queen Ann in Olympia, Washington. It did just what the manufacturer says it does and just about as fast. If you are working on surfaces where there are a lot of nail heads, you will note significantly slower results, since you have to set the heads. This isn't a problem with shakes and shingles, since they are usually blind nailed.

It does take some getting used to, as with any tool, to avoid leaving major swirl marks or gouging the wood. But this applies to belt sanders and anything else too.

You have to run these with a vacuum to keep them cool. Filters quickly clog from the fine particles. That can happen in as little as fifteen minutes. I solved this problem by running mine through an Oneida Dust Deputy cyclone system, which removes the majority of the dust and debris before it gets anywhere near your filters. The $200.00 outlay was a very good investment, especially since I use the Dust Deputy as a regular part of my vacuum system. I abandoned my sixteen gallon Sears vac and went to a much smaller Ridged unit. Since the tub doesn't fill up, capacity was no longer an issue. Too, that the Ridged unit was less powerful (rated at about 7hp) has not been an issue. Since its filter stays clean longer, it competes with the larger, more powerful unit, because the efficiency of its filter fell off after a couple minutes of use when fine particles clogged the filter. I've ran my hose nearly twenty feet with good results.

In the end, the unit worked well enough that I bought a second.
 

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Lead paint

One of the reasons we went the Paint Shaver route was the lead paint issues. The Paint Shaver, ran through a Dust Deputy cyclone and a HEPA filter solves much of the problem. Using heat, on the other hand, is a great way to promote lead poisoning, not to mention it is slow as hell.

If you have to work around lead and have used heat without respirators designed to deal with it, look into chelation, either by use of EDTA, or natural means (e.g., chlorella, cilantro extracts, etc.). The Navy has to deal with this from time to time when their sailors strip the sides of subs and ships. They take the matter pretty seriously, for good reason.

If you've worked around lead a lot and don't think it affected you, that belief may go hand in hand with the symptoms. No one's intelligence ever improved from lead poisoning.
 

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That's interesting

8 Amp, AC Only
• Variable-speed dial 3,300-4,500 RPM
• Fast, uniform, controlled removal of paint rom wood, compositions, many other surfaces
• Vertical & horizontal adjustments for uniform removal
• Uses tungsten carbide discs of 24, 36, 46 grit
• 100% ball bearings
• Adjustable side handle mounts right or left
• Standard Equipment: Paint remover, side handle #875042, back-up pad #18018, wrench #48233, 36G carbide disc #18027, allen wrench, and operating manual

SPECIFICATIONS
Power: 120 VAC, 60 HZ
Motor Amps: 8
No-load Speed: 3,300-4,500 RPM
Spindle Thread Type: 5/8 - 11 RH
Gear Drive: Precision Helical
Disc Size: 6"
Length: 10"
Net Weight: 9 1/2 Lbs.
Shipping Weight: 11 Lbs.

RELATED ACCESSORIES
Sponge Rubber Back-up Pad: - Model 18018
46 Grit: - Model 18024
36 Grit: - Model 18027
24 Grit: - Model 18030
This looks like a sweet tool.
 

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Porter Cable Siding Sander

I have a Porter Cable Siding Sander and owned it for years before buying a Paint Shaver. I still won't let go of the Porter Cable because it has a lot of uses, including as a follow-up for the Paint Shaver. However, it is a dust generating beast, to put it mildly.
 

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Paint Shaver Pro is a better tool than the Porter Cable. We have both and our guys don't touch the Porter Cable...it is way too heavy. We use the P S Pro followed by high speed grinders fitted with see through sanding discs. Greatest thing since sliced bread.
 

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This all sounds hunky dory, and the tool looks cool too, but most folks just don't want to pay for this kind of prep. I'd have to charge double or triple my regular rates if I was to shave an entire house down. Of course I guess for the select few who have the money to spend, this would be the cadilac of paint jobs.
 

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the 'shaver" is the fastest way to srtip a house, but after that, you have to sand with 14 and then 36, fix all the corners, power wash, prime and manual sand with 100, then paint,
the porter cable, too slow,
remember that because of the speed, needs practice, good luck
 

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I've used both the Paint Shaver, and the Metabo Paint shaver. I found the Metabo easier to control, but doesn't take as much paint off, as has smaller diameter. Only used the PS once, and that was years ago, so they may have upgraded it since then. Am reconsidering, as my friend bought one last summer, and said the dust control was great, which is not so with the Metabo. Dust control is a huge issue with this type of work, so much so that the hassle and liability has pretty much caused me to stop doing restoration work.
As to the final sanding, I found that sanding with a Makita 5" disk sander, using 7" 36 grit, followed by a random orbital with 60 grit, will leave a beautiful finish. We typically have Red Cedar in the Northwest, which is soft, similar I think to the redwood someone mentioned. you will always get swirl marks from the shaver tools, and just need to sand them out.
I've heard the porter cable discs gum up, which would be a drag.
 

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Gomezmsp

I have a 1904 home that needed to be stripped and I used the Paintstripper on the whole house! It litterally was an ass kicker taking off the paint after I learned the finesse of using the tool. I am truly glad I used it on my home first as it brought me in more business.
Yes, you do have to sand the swirls left in the cedar siding. This makes a great looking paint job.
 
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