I have had great luck with the product, i leave about an 1/16th gap and fill the seam heavy, come back and sand it, the joint is strong and the color is very close, make sure to pick up extra applicator nozzles and a mask, the smell is kinda strong:thumbsup:
Opinions on Bond & Fill PVC Adhesive
Our company is doing a whole house remodel on the shoreline in CT and our supplier has recommended we use a product called "Bond&Fill" on all of our Azek joints. My one concern is the owner has expressed he would like to keep the Azek unpainted (I don't see this happening in the end but we will still install the trim assuming this situation is true). I do not want to bed joints in phenoseal since any dirt/dust that collects on it will be highly visible. I have used regular pvc glue in the past and it seems to work well, but if it drips or runs the end result is not pretty. This product is supposed to be less messy/easier to use than regular pvc glue. I know Azek can really move on you after the job is done (I've seen 1/8" gaps between seasons) so I would be interested to hear what types of experiences others have had with this epoxy adhesive or other similar products. Here is a link to the product if you have no idea what I am talking about:
bondfill.com/products/bond-and-fill-structural.htm
The special caulk gun is about $60.00 and the dual tubes run about $8 to $10.
bondfill.com/products/bond-and-fill-structural.htm
The special caulk gun is about $60.00 and the dual tubes run about $8 to $10.
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I use Christy's, it's white in color and literally fuses the material together. Wipe off squeezeout immediately and thoroughly with a rag soaked in Goof-Off. This project was left unpainted and was over 2 years old when pics were taken.:thumbsup:
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might be a stupid question but has anyone ever tried titebond2 or any other exterior glue on pvc?
maybe not for long length stuff,but for columns,window and door trim and such?
maybe not for long length stuff,but for columns,window and door trim and such?
I really like the Bond & Fill structural adhesive. I used a ton of it when I was rewrapping deck/porch posts on 4 houses by the ocean. I premade a total of about 80 42" post sleeves using that adhesive and SS nails. The original pine sleeves had rotted. Any squeeze out can be easily wiped off with mineral spirits or what ever it tells you to use on the package. It is super strong and is thicker then most PVC glue, so it doesn't run. They also make a great hole filler.
I didn't buy the material, I just put the stock list together. But, I remember the tubes of 2 part structural adhesive being about $25 per tube.
I didn't buy the material, I just put the stock list together. But, I remember the tubes of 2 part structural adhesive being about $25 per tube.
We use this product all the time. It does a great job but it is not the easiest product to work with. First of all it is hard to sand. You can remove most of the material when it is still wet but this does not make as nice a joint as leaving it on a little heavy till it is dry. I have a router set up to trim the material flush so just a little sanding will finish a jont nicely.Our company is doing a whole house remodel on the shoreline in CT and our supplier has recommended we use a product called "Bond&Fill" on all of our Azek joints. My one concern is the owner has expressed he would like to keep the Azek unpainted (I don't see this happening in the end but we will still install the trim assuming this situation is true). I do not want to bed joints in phenoseal since any dirt/dust that collects on it will be highly visible. I have used regular pvc glue in the past and it seems to work well, but if it drips or runs the end result is not pretty. This product is supposed to be less messy/easier to use than regular pvc glue. I know Azek can really move on you after the job is done (I've seen 1/8" gaps between seasons) so I would be interested to hear what types of experiences others have had with this epoxy adhesive or other similar products. Here is a link to the product if you have no idea what I am talking about:
bondfill.com/products/bond-and-fill-structural.htm
The special caulk gun is about $60.00 and the dual tubes run about $8 to $10.
We like to use the fast cure and this gives you less then ten minutes to work with it. The slow cure gives you more time but we have had issues with it not drying all the way.
The large tubes are nearly $30 each and it only comes with two tips so you will have to buy a bag of tips. Seldom do we use a large tube with the two tips it comes with.
As far as not painting it, good luck with that. I recomend painting to all my customers. We have had problems with the edges of the boards getting moldy.
On the last project we did with Bond and Fill, I think we spent nearly $800 bucks on it. It does do a great job but if you think it is going to be easier than Azek glue you are going to be disapointed. If you are looking for a better finish product you will be very happy.
Dave
Re: Bond & Fill
Thanks for the responses guys! We eventually decided to leave the rakes fascia and upper window trims unpainted (the closest your eye can get is approx. 50 ft. away and the guys did a great job at leaving exact 1/8" gaps at the mitered corners). We have a bunch of columns to build and it seems like we may be able to successfully use bond & fill or loneframer's special sauce for it. I am a little worried about the comments I hear regarding sanding. The Azek we are installing is grained (customer request - my site manager calls it the ol' corral look) so any sanding may ruin that texture....
Thanks for the responses guys! We eventually decided to leave the rakes fascia and upper window trims unpainted (the closest your eye can get is approx. 50 ft. away and the guys did a great job at leaving exact 1/8" gaps at the mitered corners). We have a bunch of columns to build and it seems like we may be able to successfully use bond & fill or loneframer's special sauce for it. I am a little worried about the comments I hear regarding sanding. The Azek we are installing is grained (customer request - my site manager calls it the ol' corral look) so any sanding may ruin that texture....
If the trim is already set with 1/8 gaps, Christy's is not the product you'll want to use. It will not fill the void. It is made for direct contact bonding.Thanks for the responses guys! We eventually decided to leave the rakes fascia and upper window trims unpainted (the closest your eye can get is approx. 50 ft. away and the guys did a great job at leaving exact 1/8" gaps at the mitered corners). We have a bunch of columns to build and it seems like we may be able to successfully use bond & fill or loneframer's special sauce for it. I am a little worried about the comments I hear regarding sanding. The Azek we are installing is grained (customer request - my site manager calls it the ol' corral look) so any sanding may ruin that texture....
I have used quite a bit of the woodgrain Azek as well as the smooth. Neither type sands well. sanding will take off the finish on the face of the product and it is noticable. The only time I'll sand is if I machine a profile on the edge, such as a half-round bead. Sanding with 100 or 120 grit will help seal the open pores and resist dirt accumulation.
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