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Old stand..New life!

4309 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Justin Huisenga
With the purchase of a new Kapex comes my desire to better the stand situation. We have three stands, two of these and a Ridgid suv stand. The Ridgid has our 718 mounted to it and it will stay there.

Automotive exterior Bumper Pipe Machine Auto part

The stands use clamps. Currently we have them somewhat permanent to the saw. I want the ability to take just the Kapex if a job is small and I don't want to lug around the stand. Plus with the brackets, the height is off to use sys1 for work support if I choose to.

Table Floor Machine Flooring

I made an mdf base to attach the Kapex. Drilled holes for the rubber feet to drop into. To screw the Kapex to the base I used these inserts. They are a 1/4-20 thread and we have a ton laying around.

Finger Hand Ring Nail Thumb

Drilled all the holes the Kapex base has so I can screw it down where ever I want, although I will prob use the front two and the back two. Installed them from the bottom so they can't pull out of the mdf.

Floor Wood Plywood Flooring Ceiling

Used a Philips 1/4-20 cap screw to attach the saw. I wanted to use an Allen head that matched the allen tool on the saw, but a 1/4-20 is a smaller than that. Who doesn't have a Philips somewhere close...

Circular saw Miter saw Saw Abrasive saw Radial arm saw

Next I am starting on my fence extensions to work with the v-groove in the Kapex base. I am thinking t-track incorporation and a tape measure as a part of it all. Think fiscally savvy UG stand...
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The wings look good. You're frequently better off building tools like that yourself as they are built to suit your individual needs rather than having to settle for or adapt your work to a mass produced product. A stand like the Stablemate you are using or the Dewalt or Ryobi stand shown above make great bases for the wings with the added advantage that you can use them for small in and out type jobs without the wings when they aren't necessary.

I prefer wings to be wider than the ones you have pictured as I frequently use them as a work surface for coping, scribing, and occasionally pre-assembly. The fence on the wings allows for the use of flip stops and I prefer them to be set back from the saw fences which is another reason why I like a wider wing. I copied Katz's fences when I built my stand so that they telescope out to allow for repetitive cutting of material that is longer than the wing. You can do it with t-track or there are plans in his book to do it with a t slot router bit. The disadvantage is that if you wanted to add a tape measure to the fence it is more time consuming to dial in. I don't use thae tape and just set my stops to the pencil mark on my first cut. I have and use the Kreg flip stops but don't really trust them 100% as they flex if hit to hard ( it really doesn't take much to hit them too hard) and tend to creep a bit when you tighten them down . The production stops work well but they are limiting. I frequently have half a dozen stops set up at any one time. I plan to make my own flips when my schedule eases up a bit.

I recently rebuilt my wings and added t-track going cross grain to attach a continuous crown stop. I have found it to be well worth the extra effort as the stop is easily adjustable without having to screw around with screws or clamps. It also makes it easy to attach jigs for cutting acute angles, rabbet panel moulding and radius trim.

Good luck. Post a picture of the finished product.
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