[overanalyze]

With the purchase of a new Kapex comes my desire to better the stand situation. We have three stands, two of these and a Ridgid suv stand. The Ridgid has our 718 mounted to it and it will stay there.




The stands use clamps. Currently we have them somewhat permanent to the saw. I want the ability to take just the Kapex if a job is small and I don't want to lug around the stand. Plus with the brackets, the height is off to use sys1 for work support if I choose to.




I made an mdf base to attach the Kapex. Drilled holes for the rubber feet to drop into. To screw the Kapex to the base I used these inserts. They are a 1/4-20 thread and we have a ton laying around.




Drilled all the holes the Kapex base has so I can screw it down where ever I want, although I will prob use the front two and the back two. Installed them from the bottom so they can't pull out of the mdf.




Used a Philips 1/4-20 cap screw to attach the saw. I wanted to use an Allen head that matched the allen tool on the saw, but a 1/4-20 is a smaller than that. Who doesn't have a Philips somewhere close...




Next I am starting on my fence extensions to work with the v-groove in the Kapex base. I am thinking t-track incorporation and a tape measure as a part of it all. Think fiscally savvy UG stand...

 

[Tom Struble]

did something similar recently with a old delta kickstand and some leftover deck material..i don't got no kapex tho.. :sad:

 

[overanalyze]

So here's where I am at...still needs work...but I like having ample flat surface on either side vs. just point supports. I am going to add a back fence of some kind. Maybe with a t-track for a tape measure and stop. Also I need to re-work the clamp. The left side is a little more problematic due to the miter finder storage.

 

[Cole82]

did something similar recently with a old delta kickstand and some leftover deck material..i don't got no kapex tho.. :sad:

When I first started in the trades that is the stand I learned on! That brings back memories.

Cole

 

[Rustbucket]

Here is one I did a few months ago.

 

[overanalyze]

Here is one I did a few months ago.

I like it! It is what I am going for. Do you find having the fence line up causes any issue if your trim is bowed?

 

[Tom Struble]

i think the extension fence should be just a little behind the saws fence

 

[nickko]

i think the extension fence should be just a little behind the saws fence

I agree. Or remove it all together. :thumbup:

 

[Tom Struble]

good point,the fence makes clamping a stop easy but i guess you could do it on the tables too

 

[Rustbucket]

I like it! It is what I am going for. Do you find having the fence line up causes any issue if your trim is bowed?

I have really not noticed that. Most of the trim is plenty flexible anyway. If it were framing lumber I could see it being an issue. The extensions are not actually mounted to the saw, but to an extra set of mounts I bought. I can slide them out if the way if I need to move the miter saw fence.

 

[Justin Huisenga]

The wings look good. You're frequently better off building tools like that yourself as they are built to suit your individual needs rather than having to settle for or adapt your work to a mass produced product. A stand like the Stablemate you are using or the Dewalt or Ryobi stand shown above make great bases for the wings with the added advantage that you can use them for small in and out type jobs without the wings when they aren't necessary.

I prefer wings to be wider than the ones you have pictured as I frequently use them as a work surface for coping, scribing, and occasionally pre-assembly. The fence on the wings allows for the use of flip stops and I prefer them to be set back from the saw fences which is another reason why I like a wider wing. I copied Katz's fences when I built my stand so that they telescope out to allow for repetitive cutting of material that is longer than the wing. You can do it with t-track or there are plans in his book to do it with a t slot router bit. The disadvantage is that if you wanted to add a tape measure to the fence it is more time consuming to dial in. I don't use thae tape and just set my stops to the pencil mark on my first cut. I have and use the Kreg flip stops but don't really trust them 100% as they flex if hit to hard ( it really doesn't take much to hit them too hard) and tend to creep a bit when you tighten them down . The production stops work well but they are limiting. I frequently have half a dozen stops set up at any one time. I plan to make my own flips when my schedule eases up a bit.

I recently rebuilt my wings and added t-track going cross grain to attach a continuous crown stop. I have found it to be well worth the extra effort as the stop is easily adjustable without having to screw around with screws or clamps. It also makes it easy to attach jigs for cutting acute angles, rabbet panel moulding and radius trim.

Good luck. Post a picture of the finished product.