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Discussion Starter #1
I'm a wood floor guy but like most blue collar I dyi in my own home.

I just ro a wall for a bay window that is 5' 10" wide.

How many king studs are required for a bay window that size?

I installed one king stud on each side, two trimmer studs on each side, and six jack and cripple studs on the top and bottom.

There are regular wall/king studs 5" to the right and 10" to the left of the r.o. window king studs.

Do I need a second king on either side? I'd rather not put them in if I don't have to b/c now it would involve moving a bunch of electrical work around.

Thanks
 

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Six jack studs? Where did you put them?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Teetorbilt said:
Six jack studs? Where did you put them?
Under the sill plate. Maybe I am calling them the wrong name. Perhaps they called cripples as well? There are six because they needed to be lined up with the edges of the sheathing. They are not evenly spaced.

Anyway ...........about my king stud question???
 

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No second king needed. What your calling trimers, we call jacks. A king and a jack together make a trimer, but you hit the cripples right, if they are short studs under the window.

Bob
 

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Kings go from the top plate to the bottom plate.
Jacks go from the bottom plate to the header.
Trimmers go from the sill to the header.
Cripples fill the gaps between the top plate and the header or the sill and the bottom plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Glasshousebltr said:
No second king needed.
Bob
Awesome!! That's what I wanted to hear

So lemme get this correct b/c when you surf the web I find all kinds of names for the same framing piece.


Kings: Full stud from top plate to bottom plate
Header: Horizontal double 2x? piece above window
Jacks: Supporting header nailed to King
Trimmer: King and Jack nailed together
Sill: Double plate directly under window
Cripple: Shorties above header and below sill

Is that right?


edit:wow teetorbilt that was identical timing
 

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I also don't believe that this works in Maine, they have a different name for everything. :cheesygri
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Teetorbilt said:
Trimmers go from the sill to the header.
Ok then, however I didn't put these in at all then.
I just ran cripples under the sill attatched to the jacks

The sill was fastened to the jacks first by nailing though the jacks horizontally and into the sill.

Is this acceptable?

Oh yeah ...do you agree with Glasshouse on my king stud question?
 

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I've heard people call an extra 2x in the opening a trimer before Teetor, but for as long as I can remember just about everyone else I've worked with has called the king/jack paired as a trimer.

Point counter point: I saw Dean Johnson and Joan Leabler (Hometime) use your trimer reference.

Sill will be fine nailed like that.

And yes Teetor agrees with me on the single king........RIGHT TEETOR......don't make me get postal.:cheesygri

Bob
 

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It sounds good to me. I usually nail the cripples to the jacks and nail the sill straight down. You did put cripples under each end of the sill.....right?

Bob, how much snow would you have to run through to get to me? I ain't skeered.
 

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Ipson, I was kind of thinking along those lines as well. A pair of 2X6's or 8's will make the span but I would like to see the trimmers added to give the header more support.
 

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King Who?

Teetor,
Up here Dbl. 2X12 would be questionable with just roof load and not to mention a second floor load? 2x6? Break that over may knee!
 

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Just checked the permissible working stresses for structural timbers from government tests, bending, PSI, allowable stress in extreme fiber, dry location, sound S yellow pine. It checks in at 1,300. Doug fir at 1600.
 

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Stud King?

Teetor,
That is only partly to do with all the factors involved! What about shear or the overall span thats riding on that header! floor loads, snow loads?
We use alot of Lam beams around this area. Not to say it will not work some where else. I have two clac programs for beams and joist that work very nicely, but you have to put in all the conditions involved to have a solution!
I'm saying you have more of the solution than I!
 

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I am aware of all of the loads involved, where I live we have upload and interior pressure loads as well (hurricanes). To bring this back down to reality, we are talking of less than a 6' opening, less than a pair of 36" french doors. All of the construction that I have been involved with will accept this without a full fledged engineering assesment.
I use Catia V5R14 and you are correct in that you have to plug in ALL of the numbers which we don't have. Finite Element Analaysis will also predict point, type and severity of failure. In theory, I can push a house through Mach 3 although I doubt that it would make it anywhere near that.
Back to reality, it's less than 6'. If there is a second story, I feel even better about it.
 

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Studs

Teetor,
You may have uplift and wind issues, we deal more with shear. The calc programs I'm talking about are supplied by the manufactures such a Boise and Roseburg. That spec Lams and TrussJoist and such. Just felt your specing out something thats to lite not knowing all the values of the case load. Q. You don't have up lift if the wind not blowing, unless there's another reaction point thats causing it? Hey you win! I need My sleep! Sleepless in Michigan.
 
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