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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
L4 is live L3 switches to ground iirc. The diagram doesn't depict the details of how the relay is triggered.

Is there anyway and inductive current or the capacitance would cause the internal circuitry to trip relay k2-1?
 

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You need the diagram of the coil of the relay, you only show the contact of the relay. That capacitor may or may not have anything to do with the energizing of the coil
What is the total resistance of the line to the door relay? , 60' for 8v is a long way. We used to use 16v.

t 2 goes to ground, L4 always has 8v, L3 goes to ground when K relay is energizes which completes 8v to door relay.

What trips K2 ?
Coil is not shown on diagram, just contact
Is this diagram the relay near the door?
If its the relay by the door why is the capacitor even needed with an AC opener?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
You need the diagram of the coil of the relay, you only show the contact of the relay. That capacitor may or may not have anything to do with the energizing of the coil
What is the total resistance of the line to the door relay? , 60' for 8v is a long way. We used to use 16v.

t 2 goes to ground, L4 always has 8v, L3 goes to ground when K relay is energizes which completes 8v to door relay.

What trips K2 ?
Coil is not shown on diagram, just contact
Is this diagram the relay near the door?
If its the relay by the door why is the capacitor even needed with an AC opener?
I'm not using 8v like in the diagram, I have a separate 24vac power supply instead. It's 18/5.

The cap isn't needed, I normally snap them off when I'm not using an 8vdc strike as it can cause delay in the release.
 

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If you removed that capacitor then the circuit is isolated the only way it can happen if the door opener wire is grounded in the door frame or the wire to L3 is grounded between door and terminal.

What you showed is completely independent of the rest of the system, you have a separate power supply just for the opener,
if you removed power to the rest of the system relay k2 would de-energize
if still 24v at opener ground of L3 is completing the circuit

I my experience grounds were the cause of most problems in all low voltage systems whether it was fire alarms or intercoms

Are you sure the K2 relay is energized? if not is is definitely a ground
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you removed that capacitor then the circuit is isolated the only way it can happen if the door opener wire is grounded in the door frame or the wire to L3 is grounded between door and terminal.

What you showed is completely independent of the rest of the system, you have a separate power supply just for the opener,
if you removed power to the rest of the system relay k2 would de-energize
if still 24v at opener ground of L3 is completing the circuit

I my experience grounds were the cause of most problems in all low voltage systems whether it was fire alarms or intercoms

Are you sure the K2 relay is energized? if not is is definitely a ground
Correct, removing the power supply removed power. It's as though my wire was damaged and grounding out on something. But I tried another wire and I had the same result. It's as though the jacket of the wire was inadequate and caused a short to ground.

I don't think k2 was energized because I could hear the relay fire then I tested it.

I put my alligator clips on and put my meter on there with the wire connected to nothing. 24vac, tripped the relay, no change. Removed the leads, no voltage, tripped relay, voltage. Grabbed a different unterminated wire, hooked up in the same way....same result. Moved the relay inches from the panel, connected the same wires on the output of the relay to the controller...worked perfect.

The only thing that makes sense is I had 2 different wires that were both shorted to ground.
 

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Did you do the premise wiring?

Maybe someone hung a picture and compromised the wire?

Did you try with a new length of wire?

I'm confused...
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Did you do the premise wiring?

Maybe someone hung a picture and compromised the wire?

Did you try with a new length of wire?

I'm confused...
Not these wires no, but the one I used was completely exposed.
 

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You might try to lesson your liquid intake and increase the capacity of your solids when troubleshooting . Just saying. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You might try to lesson your liquid intake and increase the capacity of your solids when troubleshooting . Just saying. ;)
It was a Friday night...:whistling
 

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check resistance of your wire ( unhooked both ends ) with T1 terminal, should be open

If you need to get it to work temporarily float the box where the relay is. So that is not attached to building ground, that would tie t1 to 1 side of the relay contact and the ground would not matter
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
check resistance of your wire ( unhooked both ends ) with T1 terminal, should be open

If you need to get it to work temporarily float the box where the relay is. So that is not attached to building ground, that would tie t1 to 1 side of the relay contact and the ground would not matter
It's been working since Friday after I moved the relay. If I ever go back I'll check.
 

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You are a lot smarter with such diagnostics than i am for sure but if the relay is triggered by ground and you tried two separate drivers with no luck but moving the relay solved the issue then there has to be a problem where the relay was located whether the relay itself was somehow getting grounded or the board was being grounded. I am guessing possibly a loose wire, a piece of solder, metal filing or something capable of closing the loop was causing this. Possibly vibration from a vehicle or foot traffic was contributing to the problem for it to cycle on its own too.
 
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