I'm not using 8v like in the diagram, I have a separate 24vac power supply instead. It's 18/5.You need the diagram of the coil of the relay, you only show the contact of the relay. That capacitor may or may not have anything to do with the energizing of the coil
What is the total resistance of the line to the door relay? , 60' for 8v is a long way. We used to use 16v.
t 2 goes to ground, L4 always has 8v, L3 goes to ground when K relay is energizes which completes 8v to door relay.
What trips K2 ?
Coil is not shown on diagram, just contact
Is this diagram the relay near the door?
If its the relay by the door why is the capacitor even needed with an AC opener?
Correct, removing the power supply removed power. It's as though my wire was damaged and grounding out on something. But I tried another wire and I had the same result. It's as though the jacket of the wire was inadequate and caused a short to ground.If you removed that capacitor then the circuit is isolated the only way it can happen if the door opener wire is grounded in the door frame or the wire to L3 is grounded between door and terminal.
What you showed is completely independent of the rest of the system, you have a separate power supply just for the opener,
if you removed power to the rest of the system relay k2 would de-energize
if still 24v at opener ground of L3 is completing the circuit
I my experience grounds were the cause of most problems in all low voltage systems whether it was fire alarms or intercoms
Are you sure the K2 relay is energized? if not is is definitely a ground
It's been working since Friday after I moved the relay. If I ever go back I'll check.check resistance of your wire ( unhooked both ends ) with T1 terminal, should be open
If you need to get it to work temporarily float the box where the relay is. So that is not attached to building ground, that would tie t1 to 1 side of the relay contact and the ground would not matter