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wannabe
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you're going to tyvek the joists but leave an untreated, not flashed ledger against masonry??...

Dealing with the masonry wall, it would be a good idea to remove the ledger, and replace with PT spaced away from the wall for drainage, or grind out the mortar joint and install a 'Z' flashing at least...

Maybe the original ledger was in good shape, but that approach to remodeling is a bad habit to get into!!

Sometimes it's permissible to reuse existing structure....most often it's laziness or cutting a corner..... If you take pride in your work, stuff like that makes you feel dirty inside.

IMPO...Tear it off replace and flash correctly!
 

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Forming and Framing
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6,273 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
you're going to tyvek the joists but leave an untreated, not flashed ledger against masonry??...

Dealing with the masonry wall, it would be a good idea to remove the ledger, and replace with PT spaced away from the wall for drainage, or grind out the mortar joint and install a 'Z' flashing at least...

Maybe the original ledger was in good shape, but that approach to remodeling is a bad habit to get into!!

Sometimes it's permissible to reuse existing structure....most often it's laziness or cutting a corner..... If you take pride in your work, stuff like that makes you feel dirty inside.

IMPO...Tear it off replace and flash correctly!

flash it? why would i flash it when i could just use spacers :rolleyes:
it is treated
 

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wannabe
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2,283 Posts
flash it? why would i flash it when i could just use spacers :rolleyes:
The point is, it's easy to just leave the untreated ledger....I deal with this situation almost daily.

You're not just replacing what was there, you're solving any and all problems that may exist....as long as you're there you should do it right! Leaving the ledger as is isn't a good practice!

The only time we leave questionable structure is if the fix would require a whole house remodel!

Believe me, it is easy to get in the habit of taking short cuts.....this is the perfect example of what separates the quality of contractors!
 
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Forming and Framing
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Discussion Starter #44
The point is, it's easy to just leave the untreated ledger....I deal with this situation almost daily.

You're not just replacing what was there, you're solving any and all problems that may exist....as long as you're there you should do it right! Leaving the ledger as is isn't a good practice!

The only time we leave questionable structure is if the fix would require a whole house remodel!

Believe me, it is easy to get in the habit of taking short cuts.....this is the perfect example of what separates the quality of contractors!

its treated and in perfect shape. i will add bolts and drill out some holes in the spacer but it is level, straight, I will treat it with some sealer and oil
 

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Custom Builder
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1,412 Posts
If its TREATED and SPACED as nick said why would he remove it?

Looks like it is in perfect shape. Im with nick if the existing treated ledger is in the shape it appears like it is in the pictures, I would add a few lags and flash it and move on. Theres no reason to beat a dead horse here by doing more work replacing a perfectly good piece of lumber with the same thing.:whistling
 

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Forming and Framing
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Discussion Starter #46
If its TREATED and SPACED as nick said why would he remove it?

Looks like it is in perfect shape. Im with nick if the existing treated ledger is in the shape it appears like it is in the pictures, I would add a few lags and flash it and move on. Theres no reason to beat a dead horse here by doing more work replacing a perfectly good piece of lumber with the same thing.:whistling
it may be cedar. everything else was, but still its rot free and is covered under my overhang. I willl lag it more
 

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The Duke
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it may be cedar. everything else was, but still its rot free and is covered under my overhang. I willl lag it more
Cedar framing? :no:

Kind of looks like it though. Cedar is not very good for ledgers if it is. Maybe someone will prove me wrong. Good for rot resistance, yes. Good structurally, no.
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
That ledger may or may not be solid and structurally sound, but it's kind of like re-using step flashings when ripping and replacing a roof, IMO.

I doubt it will have a remaining service life equivalent to the new deck framing.

For 20-30 bucks worth of new lumber and an hour or two of work, it's not worth the risk of leaving to build on top of with a couple thousand dollars worth of new material.
 

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The Duke
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That ledger may or may not be solid and structurally sound, but it's kind of like re-using step flashings when ripping and replacing a roof, IMO.

I doubt it will have a remaining service life equivalent to the new deck framing.

For 20-30 bucks worth of new lumber and an hour or two of work, it's not worth the risk of leaving to build on top of with a couple thousand dollars worth of new material.
Solid advice bro. :thumbsup:
 

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How about ledging over the existing? Not that you need it but double the strength. The old joists were just toe nailed over that one. Were you going to it that way again?
 

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Forming and Framing
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Discussion Starter #51
How about ledging over the existing? Not that you need it but double the strength. The old joists were just toe nailed over that one. Were you going to it that way again?

thats what i will do, i will toenail to existing and ontop i will add one and use pressure blocks.
:thumbup:
 

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Custom Builder
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That ledger may or may not be solid and structurally sound, but it's kind of like re-using step flashings when ripping and replacing a roof, IMO.

I doubt it will have a remaining service life equivalent to the new deck framing.

For 20-30 bucks worth of new lumber and an hour or two of work, it's not worth the risk of leaving to build on top of with a couple thousand dollars worth of new material.
That makes alot of sense to. Id have to really see it to tell if Id leave it or replace it. If it was perfectly fine I would leave it there though. Ive yet to ever see a deck ledger in like new condition on a rebuild though.
 

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Forming and Framing
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Discussion Starter #54
later in the week we will rent a auger from HD and drill holes.
Do you think 8" tubes would be ok. 6x6 post and 2x8 beams spanning 5'-3"

We will borrow our friends trailer and go to the cheap framer lumberyard and buy 1 of each thing we need for the deck, then on the bill we will have cheap prices and HD will beat it by 10% :thumbup:
 

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Forming and Framing
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Discussion Starter #57
Nick draw an 8" circle then draw a 5.5" square in side of it.

let us know what you come up with
i looked in the store, i would have to be right on, while the rebar is only in the centre i may be better off having some play and assured full bearing
 

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Yes, and it just looks better to have a revel between the post and pier.

Now that I have your atention consider notching the top of your post for your 2x8 not 3" but an 1.5" from each side this will space your 2x8's about 2.5" apart better for leting things dry out.

you say a 5-3 span so plenty strong block that space at the center point and add a 45* brace back to each post the block and brace being the same 2.5" nailing the 2x8's from both sides.

You can through bolt your 2x8's to your post and if you really want i to look sweet only notch your 2x8's in 1-3/8" that way the roundness on the edge of your 2x8 is proud of your post it's a better look that takes no extra time.
 

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Forming and Framing
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Discussion Starter #59
Yes, and it just looks better to have a revel between the post and pier.

Now that I have your atention consider notching the top of your post for your 2x8 not 3" but an 1.5" from each side this will space your 2x8's about 2.5" apart better for leting things dry out.

you say a 5-3 span so plenty strong block that space at the center point and add a 45* brace back to each post the block and brace being the same 2.5" nailing the 2x8's from both sides.

You can through bolt your 2x8's to your post and if you really want i to look sweet only notch your 2x8's in 1-3/8" that way the roundness on the edge of your 2x8 is proud of your post it's a better look that takes no extra time.
of course i will notch it. i will not bolt it, just nail. Ill keep that in mind while i notch
 
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