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Can’t believe a REAL and LEGIT roofing contractor would instal this from both outsides to the middle.

Since you do “GC-ing” have you used this guy before? Hold him accountable.

I'm a framer. (was - forever in the blood)
I’ve done only ONE roof like that-to stay busy between jobs. The instructions are very clear how to install.

As they say, “so easy, a framer could do it…”

sounds like tear off (remove) one side and carry on with the other side. There’s no way I know of to join them in the middle. They only fasten along one side then get snap covered by the next overlapping piece.

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From the looks of it he used the clip style. Which IMO is the correct one for long panels.
The shiny pieces going up the side of panel. I would really like to see how they put the last panel on in the center
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Looks like you're correct, I never zoomed in on the picture.



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He used Zip sheathings, IMO that is not what is causing his problem. Poor product install.
I do quite a few metal roofs, I've used Zip on roofs and taped it accordingly, but I still use I&WS. I would not trust the Zip as the only waterproofing. In fact a house I am building now that has a metal standing seam roof panels, my roofer's specs are: "Install Grace Ice & Water Shield with an overlay of synthetic felt". i think this is pretty bullet proof.
 
Sorry guys, but installing in two directions is entirely possible. It really depends on the ability of the roofer. Bending custom panels with two male seams or two female seams is how the two meet.

It's possible and depends on the roofer's ability to fabricate and layout. The are many complex roofs that I wouldn't want to do any other way. It's particularly advantageous to run into a valley and have the panel shrink as opposed to increase in length. Snap-lock panels don't work well for this, but with a true mechanical locked seam it's a piece of cake.
 
Before you just stick ice and water shield on top of zip roof, you should contact Huber and make sure that the bonding agent in the ice and water shield doesn’t create some kind of chemical reaction with the coating on the plywood. That would be the first call I would make before I just assume I know best
 
I&W is mainly beneficial because it dries in the project for finish material installation. Secondly, a layer of protection in the event of the metal, or whatever, gets blown off or damaged. Other that those 30# has worked for many years.
 
I have done miles of standing seam, snap lock and mechanical lock. As others have mentioned, it is possible to make a double female in mechanical lock. It’s hard to tell from the pics but this looks like snap lock to me. My guess is that the just banged the panels together and made some sort of mending panel with z running up the panels. I would love to see I finished pic. If they are using the cap detail I think they are using, it’s garbage. I know why people do it. The hardest part of standing seam is the z and cap because you have to work on the installed panels. We have very expensive roof jacks for that part. In my opinion, they are using way too many clips. The roof is oil canning terribly. We do 1’ on center for the first two and last two panels and then 2’ for the field. Panels don’t blow off in the middle. I hate to beat the installers up because this screams “low bid” crew to me. The homeowner probably got exactly what they were paying for. Like it or not.
 
I have done miles of standing seam, snap lock and mechanical lock. As others have mentioned, it is possible to make a double female in mechanical lock. It’s hard to tell from the pics but this looks like snap lock to me. My guess is that the just banged the panels together and made some sort of mending panel with z running up the panels. I would love to see I finished pic. If they are using the cap detail I think they are using, it’s garbage. I know why people do it. The hardest part of standing seam is the z and cap because you have to work on the installed panels. We have very expensive roof jacks for that part. In my opinion, they are using way too many clips. The roof is oil canning terribly. We do 1’ on center for the first two and last two panels and then 2’ for the field. Panels don’t blow off in the middle. I hate to beat the installers up because this screams “low bid” crew to me. The homeowner probably got exactly what they were paying for. Like it or not.
I am with you on the too many clips. It looks like they are 12"oc, but better too many than too few. I have found oil canning to be an issue more with the way installers handle the panels or the way the panel is rolled....if a seam gets slightly "stretched" or twisted by the way it's handled or formed the waves are going to show up. I find it awkward how the idea that striated panels somehow try improve the way a panel looks. I think striated panels look like ass, but that's just my opinion.

Regarding the "U" panel needed to make the two side meet, I don't see how a shop made snap cap to finish is any less weather resistant than any other snap lock seam. Truth is a snap lock panel is a compromise over a mechanical lock. I don't know why someone would run down a valley as opposed to running up given the choice and know-how. Running down also puts the male side on the same side as the valley. This could give a greater possibility of water intrusion.

You suggest "low bid", IDK, maybe, but they appear to have laid the roof out with both left and right sides having similar width rake panels as well as a hemmed rake. These indicate at least some level of experience. Working with out of the box, catalogue universal trims, is a better indicator of a crew that lacks much in their ability to turn flat stock into the required parts.

Whatever. I will let the carpenters talk it out while I hang helplessly from my "sack"

@Randy Bush .....the UDL Titanium PSU 30 is a great product 👍 Great to walk on. Unfortunately no one carries it in my area.
 
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