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Double tops during plating?

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New plating methods?

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3.2K views 43 replies 12 participants last post by  Mcjarod  
#1 ·
For plating our current project, I nailed full 16-20’ material in place to the ground and to eachother with 8s to keep them in place for layout, then used an 8” saw to cut both plates at once at the exact same measurement right in place over the line, then use the remainder of the plates for a shorter wall.
I know that nailing plates down is an old school trick, but I haven’t ever seen guys do it with a nail gun (which I did) and with an 8” saw to cut both plates at once.

this seems to be the most efficient and accurate method I can find, anybody have any tips or ideas that could make it even faster?

also bonus question, cutting double top Plates during the plating stage?
 
#2 ·
We just cut our top and bottom plates to center on stud layout, and continuation plates as well. Odd length plates measured and cut. Double top plates terminate on stud/over headers and offset to lower plates.

Platform framing we 16 penny nail lower plates to line, square up walls, sheet, housewrap, stand. Or we'll build them and lift to location.

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#4 ·
We just cut our top and bottom plates to center on stud layout, and continuation plates as well. Odd length plates measured and cut. Double top plates terminate on stud/over headers and offset to lower plates.

Platform framing we 16 penny nail lower plates to line, square up walls, sheet, housewrap, stand. Or we'll build them and lift to location.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
No nail inspections in MI?
 
#25 ·
I didn't see where he said he's in MI. But yes, we don't have nail inspections. We have framing inspections and that covers the nails. You guys have inspectors that just inspect nails?
Roof nail inspection, shear nail inspection & dry wall nail inspection.

Framing insp is generally when structure is weather tight.

Shear insp is needed before siding is installed, roof nail prior to dry in...
 
#3 ·
You’re brand new at this or this is some kind of hobby, correct? Your bonus question is hard for me to understand what exactly you’re asking. Is English your first language because knowing that might help me try to dissect what it is you’re saying.

By reading your post I assume you are building your structures on a slab on grade. Conditions and techniques may vary for other foundation types. At least that’s how I do things. The only advice I will share is that you develop techniques that work best for the conditions that you have to work in per project. Be flexible. Once you discover a system that makes sense to you, that’s the one you need to capitalize on for those conditions.
 
#5 ·
I will add:

I try to simplify things wherever I can. This way, it is easy to teach a new guy our methods, and the 20 year guys will remember them easily. I don't want to own an 8" saw with it's sole use being to cut plates. I hate tools that are one trich ponies. We have settled on 7 1/4 battery operated circular saws. This means no cords and lighter weight. The savings in time with that more than offsets the occasional second cut I have to make for each wall plate.
 
#23 ·
I also will generally get ahead of my crew laying out the exterior walls first, then waiting until those are almost complete to start layout on the interior. I have seen other crews that layout all of the walls first, but I think they just get in the way. Every job is different. I try to think ahead and sometimes that involves doing things differently than we did on other jobs. On a large house, you have more leeway on the order of things. On a few occasions, we have waited on the attached garage walls until we have most of the existing house under roof. This allows mechanicals to begin and provides us with some rain work.
 
#32 ·
I installed an 8” blade on my 7-1/4 makita rear handle cordless saw, I had to remove the guard, and file the inside of the blade housing near the front where it bumps in a bit. Once I got it filed enough to fit the blade on, I ran the saw while shaking it a little bit to get it to wobble side to side and actually shave some of the inside with the blade itself, there was only a tiny bit that needed to be taken down by the saw, but the magnesium is nice and soft and didn’t even dull the blade. I can get about 3-1/8 cut depth, 9/16 more than originally.
 
#41 ·
Was working resi subbing back during 08 crunch. Was told osha fined g.c 250k for no handrail-fall protection. We went in & installed all necessary railing. Framing sub had been paid & skied up. Otoh I’ve seen em crawling all over comm. jobs, checking scaffold etc. all the way down to questioning hands about conditions-procedure etc. Alabama comm. was infested w/osha @ 1 time

Mike
 
#42 ·
It's great to see a young man coming up in the trades. You sound like a good guy with plenty of ambition.

Please replace the guard on your saw.

I know a guy, well I was there when it happened. Cut a piece of lumber with a circle saw, set the saw on the cut table and when he stepped away he must have moved the cord.

The saw fell off the table and sliced the back of his calf, nice and deep. That saw had a guard but it fell just prefect.

He's ok and a tough guy, wanted someone to take pictures of it for him.

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