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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, we are starting a new build, and i want to show you step by step what our company does. Not looking to start big arguments on how to do things, but we do a lot of things differently then most contractors in our area. If you have any questions or want a clearer picture just ask and ill try and get something up right away.

Just to be clear we are a general contractor, we usually do Custom Homes in 1500 sq. ft. range, nothing to fancy. Our target costumer is young families/ retired people looking for a energy efficient house at an affordable price. although we usually build 1 or 2 bigger houses every year

So those are the things that i would like to show and talk about, i realize there are always better ways of doing things, but energy efficiency vs cost is a pretty tough balancing act.

We started digging this past Wednesday, and here are the pictures that i have so far, ill try and get some new ones up everyday.
 

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Looks good so far, better than 90%of the basements around here. What's the name of that thermal barrier product? Are you doing radiant floor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We are located in Chatham, Ontario.

And the insulation board is called Silverboard. It is 2" think and has a R-10 value. It has the density to support bearing walls, but i'd rather not put it to the test. We are not doing radiant floors. we have done them before in basements, but our insulation is so overkill that the system hardly calls for heat.

And thanks!
 

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Just curious why you raise the pour in place windows to top of floor joist? Just speaking on a framers behalf, such a pain in the ass.
The silver board is a nice product. One builder was using it, but switched to using sprayfoam instead. We never have the luxury of having the basements poured before we arrive. Sure would be a nice benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
We keep the windows up so you get get as much window above grade as possible. makes the basement have lots of natural light and feel less like a basement. As for framing them in it's not to bad. All our houses are like that so we have a pretty quick and easy way to frame them in. We use Wood I joists, and the windows only come up to the bottom of the top cord.

As for spray foam, its a lot more $, and it can only be done in controlled conditions. We can put this down anytime of year and fast, Which is a big advantage in the winter time for frost protection.
 

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Hi MultiCon,

Looks great, never understood why everyone isn't installing that drainage board outside the concrete! Btw, we are developing a foam plant in Ontario if you want to partner up with a manufacturer for any foam based building materials. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got it all back filled and poured the floor today. We have a deck to build so it might be a day or two till we start framing it up.

I see lots of guys using the platon board for around the foundation walls, but they all tar the wall before witch completely defeats the point of the product. It works awesome though if correctly installed.

Never used ICF's, a little to rich for my blood.

This is my boss/uncle finishing the floor... the machines still spinning. I guess i need more practice!
 

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Forming and Framing
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Got it all back filled and poured the floor today. We have a deck to build so it might be a day or two till we start framing it up.

I see lots of guys using the platon board for around the foundation walls, but they all tar the wall before witch completely defeats the point of the product. It works awesome though if correctly installed.

Never used ICF's, a little to rich for my blood.

This is my boss/uncle finishing the floor... the machines still spinning. I guess i need more practice!
A little rich? Elaborate :blink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cost wise i don't see it ever paying for its self for foundation wall... i mean 7\8 of the wall is under grade. When we frame the basement wall we have 1" foam against the foundation, then 2x4 wall. that's an r-20 wall, and its cheaper and takes up less space then ICF.

(Also i have an uncle that owns a concrete company and a wall forming company- could lead to some savings)
 

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Because an ICF basement complete is going to cost you 2-5% more and makes the basement that much more habitable. Properly set up HVAC system and the basement is now useable living space, meaning it's warm and dry year round same as the rest of the house. Don't believe...visit an ICF house and see for yourself
 

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Forming and Framing
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Cost wise i don't see it ever paying for its self for foundation wall... i mean 7\8 of the wall is under grade. When we frame the basement wall we have 1" foam against the foundation, then 2x4 wall. that's an r-20 wall, and its cheaper and takes up less space then ICF.

(Also i have an uncle that owns a concrete company and a wall forming company- could lead to some savings)
Basements.. Pssh, where you will really see the savings with ICF is above grade!
Think about it , your exterior walls are exposed to the heat of the sun and the cold wind. Of course you want them to be the tightest best preforming walls money can buy. For us to do a full ICF house vs doing a conventional wood framed house you are looking at a 2-5% increase in overall construction costs. Thats not bull****, thats the truth.
That 3% is minimal considering the advantages that the system offers, not only during construction, but once the house is finished too.
Let me remind you,
ICF walls
Reinforced concrete =strength
Quiet.
Tightest building envelope.
No thermal bridging.
No moisture issues.
Easy to wire, plumb and heat.
6 in 1 wall system.
Construction schedule is reduced.
If you are aiming to build, sustainable, high performance eco houses ICF is the way to go. You can sell the homeowners on the advantages of the system, or if you are building a spec house, it will give you a unique edge against your competition .
Theres my rant.
So before you start your next house give me or Chris a call and we will be more then happy to take care of all your ICF and structural carpentry needs :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
1'' isoboard does alot of that too.

Also I find people are super cheep. The other day i was doing the electrical walk through with a costumer, i mentioned it would look really nice to add a pot light at the top of a gable, it would cost an extra $60 dollars, he said that's way to much.. so no pot light.

There is one guy in our city who does it, hes done like a hand full of jobs if chatham-kent in the past 5 years, the rest are out of town and usually big costom homes or offices.

I totally agree ICF is better, but we got blow joe and wam bam are throwing houses together beside yours for way less (and piss poor quality and not custom). So an extra 2% is even to much cost sadly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Lots and lots of glue, i think we used something like 14 jumbo tubes, no squeaks in this floor! Or any non-insulated spaces!
 

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Basements.. Pssh, where you will really see the savings with ICF is above grade!
Think about it , your exterior walls are exposed to the heat of the sun and the cold wind. Of course you want them to be the tightest best preforming walls money can buy. For us to do a full ICF house vs doing a conventional wood framed house you are looking at a 2-5% increase in overall construction costs. Thats not bull****, thats the truth.
That 3% is minimal considering the advantages that the system offers, not only during construction, but once the house is finished too.
Let me remind you,
ICF walls
Reinforced concrete =strength
Quiet.
Tightest building envelope.
No thermal bridging.
No moisture issues.
Easy to wire, plumb and heat.
6 in 1 wall system.
Construction schedule is reduced.
If you are aiming to build, sustainable, high performance eco houses ICF is the way to go. You can sell the homeowners on the advantages of the system, or if you are building a spec house, it will give you a unique edge against your competition .
Theres my rant.
So before you start your next house give me or Chris a call and we will be more then happy to take care of all your ICF and structural carpentry needs :thumbup:
How are they easier to wire and plumb?
 
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