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New flooring in Kitchen

4565 Views 16 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  adams,b, 
G
I am going to replace the flooring in my kitchen soon and was looking to get some advice...

What would add the most value for the cost on the home

Tile or Laminate

I would go with Hardwood, but I dont think it would raise the value vs cost in my neighborhood.

Looking for the best gain for my dollar.

JD
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jproffer said:
You're leaving out some important things to consider: 1) Framing member size and spacing. 2) Material the subfloor is made of: Plywood is ok, particle board is NOT OK.

BTW, maybe I've just never read the right manufacturer's instructions, but all the ones I HAVE read say to screw the rock down with purpose made screws, not nail it. Nailing voids warranties. Also, I hope you don't mean JUST nail it down??? CBU should be set in thinset (unmodified) AND screwed down every 6 inches, trying to avoid the joists with the screws.
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BTW,CBU,????.......Yes, you can nail it down with roofing nails. I like to set it in thin-set as well.
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I went to a class when "Hardi backer" just came out and that rep didnt say you could not nail it. We nail it all the time, Its a lot easier to get the head flush. So every time your fighting a screw think about me. Oh we hadn't had a seconds problem with nailing it either.
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Attach Hardibacker cement board to framing
If required by local building codes, install a moisture barrier between studs and cement board.

Install sheets 1/4" above floor, tub or shower pan.

Fasten cement board with specified nails or screws (as listed in "Materials Required") a maximum of 8" around perimeter and all supporting studs.

Keep fasteners 3/8" from sheet edges and 2" in from sheet corners.

Set fastener heads flush with the surface, without overdriving.
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