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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)


So I have had this saw for about 6 months and I think after dropping it a few times (hook it on saw horses with a nail, gets knocked off, ect) I noticed a squeaking sound as it spins. I think it could be a bearing, not sure.

I am also having an issue with the guard getting cut up a little bit from the blade, due to the blade warping when I cut arches out of plywood or from the guard being too loose (it feels loose or wobbly anyway, but I can't find a way to tighten it).

So those 2 issues aside, I decided to take it apart (my first time taking a saw apart :eek:) and in doing so when trying to remove the outer guard (the part with the black makita letters) from the motor the coil pack started to come out of the saw with it. Likely cause the gears were still interlocked and I didn't know what I was doing...

I got it free and the coil pack went back in the housing. I'm cleaning everything up and going to put it back together this weekend. If it is a bearing issue I see the top one being able to be replaced, but the lower one thats just above the blower fan, around the spline connected to the coil pack seems almost welded on there it won't budge.

Safety wise I'm wondering if I could have damaged anything by having the coil pack come out of the housing? Its in there good now, I can't pull it up to save my life and I'm confused how I got it to come out in the first place. I took out the brushes (they look fine, lots of saw dust in there so I blew it out) and the coil pack still wouldn't come free. Is it supposed to?

Also, when disassembling johnny five here, dust got in the greased areas, I'm wondering what I should use to clean the grease out and what kind of grease I should put back in?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

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If you don't have time to fix it, start a bone yard and just go buy another just like it. I have a saw repair "ammo" box full of replacement parts for my arsenal of favorite saws. Switches, brushes, bearings, gearbox "O" rings, blade bolts/washers, guard bumpers and return springs, cords and standoffs, and many bone yard carcasses to scavenge from.

It's hard to find a good small bearing puller. You can buy better bearings than originally come with the saw too, (get the high quality sealed type). I use a (modified/grinding required) automotive battery terminal puller to pull the bearings. Once you get the original bearing loose, they will remove easier after that. Put moderate pressure on the puller and lightly smack the puller bolt end with a hammer to break them loose.

If you have contaminated the grease just replace it with common moly wheel bearing grease. Best not to mix grease types.

One way to extend switch life is to hold the trigger once for multiple cuts. Brushes are easier and cheaper to replace than switches. ;)
 

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Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's hard to find a good small bearing puller. You can buy better bearings than originally come with the saw too, (get the high quality sealed type). I use a (modified/grinding required) automotive battery terminal puller to pull the bearings. Once you get the original bearing loose, they will remove easier after that. Put moderate pressure on the puller and lightly smack the puller bolt end with a hammer to break them loose.

If you have contaminated the grease just replace it with common moly wheel bearing grease. Best not to mix grease types.
Good info thanks. What would you recommend to clean the grease with?
 

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Carpenter
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Should I be worried about the coil pack coming out of the housing the first time I tried to remove the upper guard (the part with the black makita letters on it)?

The gears were interlocked so until I removed one set of gears (the ones not on the spline connected to the coil pack) it would not come free.

Then I wanted to pull the coil pack out to see how it looked and I can't get it out.

So I'm worried something might be wrong?
 

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Of the bearings that are part of the drive line in this schematic, the armature bearings, (# 22, #30) will go out most often, # 22 is the most common. The two bearings (#12, #17) at each end of the blade shaft (#15) can also go out, but they last the longest and rarely need replacing.


"O" rings (#18, #31) keep the grease in the gear housing and out of the motor and blade housings. Replace if broken or pinched, or if grease is found leaking into the motor or blade housings.


Take the brushes out first and replace last, and disassemble as much as it takes to get to the squeaky bearings. Most parts are just pressed on or in, sometimes a few light smacks on the housing or the shaft with a rubber headed mallet are needed to unseat the bearings from their housings/shafts. Pay attention to the position of the bearings on the shaft so you can press the new ones on to the same tolerances. If your saw labors after replacing the bearings you may need to push them on a little further. They are not designed for side pressures, you should be able to turn the blade by hand fairly easy. Also, be carefully not to push them on to far as they can be a bear to get the puller on if the gap is to small.


The trigger switch (#44) is a universal type. Many different manufactures and price ranges. They fit a lot of different saws and makers. Pay attention to the wiring of the switches you buy, while they fit the same they do not all wire the same. Instructions are usually on the switch itself.


Don't be afraid to go at it, you'll end up buying more of those saws anyway. And you'll figure out how to get it back together. ;)


Sounds like the saw needs a new saw guard too. The ring will crack when the saw is dropped and open up making it loose.


Those are great little saws. Same basic blue print for the PC 315 and the Milwaukee's.
 
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