[Reg]

I'm not a construction worker. I am a manager to a contractor who is pulling me in to jobs that are new to me. I have a question with Ice and Water. I will try to explain this the best I can so not to be too confusing. Bare with me.

First of all, what is the proper NON brand name for this shield? My main question, I've been given a job to ice and water around windows that are stepped. I'm trying to figure out the best way to do this so it doesn't bunch up in the corners and still makes a perfect seal.

I played around with it today for about an hour and the best seal I've been able to come up with is like a butterfly or better yet, a bow tie cut placed in the corners to seal. A second layer, slit at a 45 degree up to the step, placed on top. When applied, it splits and reveals the bow tie I first applied. It seems to make a nice seal. The rest is easy. Just these corners I'm wanting to make work. Thanks for any help you can give me on this.

Mods, Im not sure where to put this. Most roofers use this stuff but this is more of a construction or carpenter's question?

 

[EricBrancard]

Ice and Water shield is pretty thick for window flashing. Have you looked into flashing products that are designed for use around windows available in 3 1/2" and 6" widths? Grace Vycor, Protectowrap, 3M, Zip Tape, etc.

 

[VinylHanger]

^^^^^^ What he said. Why are you using Ice and Water shield instead of the proper products? They also make a corner for the window flashings.

 

[Reg]

I thought Grace Vycor and Ice and Water were the same but different product names only. Grace Vycor is what I was actually using today. So scrap what I said about Ice and Water and replace it with Grace Vycor. Thanks Eric, VinylHanger.

 

[rselectric1]

Mods, Im not sure where to put this. Most roofers use this stuff but this is more of a construction or carpenter's question?

Mod here :laughing:

I'm not sure exactly where this question belongs either but lets let it ride here for now.

If you want it moved to a specific section, ask one of the mods to move it and they will surely oblige.:thumbsup:

 

[Reg]

Will do and Thanks rselectric1.

So I just looked up to see that Grace Vycor makes a Prefabricated Corner - That would be an easy solution but I'm sure there is a way to do this nicely without me having to use pre fab corners. No?

 

[Tom M]

Ice Shield / ice guard. Grace Vycor is a thin non granular type that is okay. The bow tie technique is as good as you can get. Bulky. Beware not all rubber backed adhesives are compatible with pvc window frames.

 

[EricBrancard]

This may help a little:

http://www.jlconline.com/windows/flashing-and-trimming-a-window_1.aspx

Also, DuPont and Typar make a flex wrap flashing that is really easy to use for sill flashing. Only drawback is the price.

Also, as Vinylhanger mentioned, there are corner pieces you can get. Grace makes the Vycorner as an option.

 

[jlsconstruction]

I put my sill flashing on

Caulk the crap out of the corners, the put these over the caulk





Tack them in place with a hammer tacker

Caulk around the window, put the window in,
Then flash the sides and top

 

[Reg]

Remember, I'm dealing with a stepped window. So I have that to contend with as well. Thanks again folks.

 

[jlsconstruction]

It's still the same idea, think like water. Start at the bottom and work up

 

[duburban]

I like cutting up Ice and Water, its much cheaper and the right size for anything is always available.

 

[Reg]

It's still the same idea, think like water. Start at the bottom and work up

Thanks. Do you always hammer tack or only on a day when it's cool and not sticking as well?

 

[jlsconstruction]

Thanks. Do you always hammer tack or only on a day when it's cool and not sticking as well?

Always, it's no fun to have it move when you're trying to put the window in, and I always have a hammer tacker on me when doing windows anyways for tacking the house wrap out of the way. Just 1 or 2 staples in it to keep it in place

 

[Ohteah]

I'm not sure exactly, can't picture what you mean by stepped.

DuPont flexwrap sounds like the way to go. It's like a buck and change a box. You can always hang on to it, if you don't use it up. Peace of mind / weathertight= priceless. It'll allow you to flash the window monolithic, no seams, caulk or cuts.


Weathersmart makes a comparable product for less $. I've used it on one job, didn't find it to be as pliable, flexible as DuPont. It still worked nonetheless .

 

[jlsconstruction]

As in a buck and change he means over $200 a 75' roll.

And of still should be caulked anyways

 

[Ohteah]

As in a buck and change he means over $200 a 75' roll.

And of still should be caulked anyways

The 6 in is closer to 150, I think, so I'm not sure if 6 in or 9in is what's needed. I'm sure you could check local yards and get the 9 for under 200. The weather smart is definitely cheaper.


If you use flexwrap for your sill pan, where is caulk required ? Caulk sides and top flanges,

 

[jlsconstruction]

The 6 in is closer to 150, I think, so I'm not sure if 6 in or 9in is what's needed. I'm sure you could check local yards and get the 9 for under 200. The weather smart is definitely cheaper. If you use flexwrap for your sill pan, where is caulk required ? Caulk sides and top flanges,

I was talking about caulking the sides and top. 6" is 149 and 9" is 219 here. A good caulk will outlast a window so I don't see the point to use flex wrap. And you should use at least 9" for the sill

 

[Ohteah]

I was talking about caulking the sides and top. 6" is 149 and 9" is 219 here. A good caulk will outlast a window so I don't see the point to use flex wrap. And you should use at least 9" for the sill

I typically use 6 in on 2x4, 9 on 2x6, I hear there is a 5 in, but could be a myth, I've never been able to get it. I can't see not using it, even a good caulk, maybe ten years. It doesn't bond, you have a void, it shrinks, separates etc. It will inevitably fail.

A sill flashing like flexwrap can't fail, if done properly. Window leaks doesn't matter you wall cavity is bulletproof. IMO.

 

[jlsconstruction]

If you're only getting 10 years out of caulk you should buy a better caulk.