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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have three concrete piers now placed in back of house for porch posts to sit on. One is too short and doesn't match the others in width.

The architect didn't really detail the piers out enough. It got messed up due to different interpretations by everyone.

In summary, the mason made one pier as a 'peninsula' next to the poured wall foundation. The other two piers the excavator made and dropped in place as 'islands'.



The mason's pier is too short, and it doesn't match the width of the excavator's piers.

Problem is that the 1 pier next to the foundation is shorter than the 2 island piers. It's too short (0" above grade).

The 2 island piers are at the correct height (8" above grade).

Also, the short pier is 10x10" wide while the island piers are 16x16" wide.

Does anyone have any ideas on how I might modify the short pier next to the foundation to be at the same 8" height and 16x16" size as the island piers?


Please help.

Thanks
 

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Build a form however big you need it to be and set it on top of the offending pier. Drill & epoxy in 4 dowels, pour concrete, (most of you guys call it cement), set your anchor & be done.

You might get better answers over at the DIY site....:whistling
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks very much Griz.

Not sure what the :whistling implies? Did I post in the wrong section?

I'm a general contractor. Not a mason. My knowledge in this area is marginal.

Trying to find the best way to deal with this issue in terms of cost, simplicity, speed, quality, etc.

Then I'll hire the right mason -- or otherwise -- to deal with it. And, I'll also get their idea.

Right now I'm trying to do some homework.

Thanks
 

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I think he means :whistling because a GC should have a lot of knowledge about concrete, and it was an elementary question.

Get you a hammer drill, a few tubes of epoxy at the yard and go to town. :thumbsup:
 

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Might as well dig out the offending pier/caisson and re-form/re-pour.

I am assuming you are in snow country and hoping for a quick fix that does not involve digging out to frost depth?

Bearing calls out for 16" x 16" by however deep, gotta go with that.

Andy.
Good point, no frost lines here. lucky to get down below 40 half a dozen times.
 

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My head hurts.....wtf are they made of? Brick, block, stone?

I hope they are made of something other then block or concrete....at least make this question a challenge.

Simple scenario:

what are the dimensions of 2, 8" block sitting side by side?

ahhh haaa....just have to finish em off so they match.
 

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I thought the plan indicates 36"x36"x42, where did 16x16 came from?
 

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They're terrible plans, looks like they are scaled out to 16" yet it says 36". It doesn't say typical either, you don't know if it's just that one pier or if they all need to have those specs. That combined with the fact that people usually screw up piers anyway, even when they're drawn out clear on the plans means you should have been watching this. What does the building department say about it? Maybe you can just leave it, maybe you have to repair all of them.

To answer your question, epoxying rebar is usually acceptable when you're adding on to concrete. Sounds like you've never done this, use a 5/8" roto-hammer bit with #4 rebar. Clean your holes out properly, meaning use compressed air then a brush, repeat the process at least twice, check with your finger make sure the hole is clean. Squirt the first couple inches of epoxy on the ground because the first couple inches that come out are never mixed properly. Stick the tip of your epoxy gun in the back of the hole and slowly bring it back so that there are no air gaps in your epoxy and the hole is filled. If you had to have an inspector there, he would watch for all this. Install your rebar how you want it then build your form, make sure you have at least one inch clearance between your rebar and forms. Vibrate it, repair jobs take some extra attention.
 

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I read it as a 36"X36" with a bottom 42" below grade. The a pier on top of that (with no dimentiones given for the footing thickness or the pier widths.

Two piers are at the appropriate elevation and one is 8" low. If it just for a porch roof, adding 8" height to pier adjacent to the house should be enough for bearing if that pier is taking half as much roof load as the center pier. You will need a clarification by the designer on the dimension and an approval by the inspector since it is a changed slightly from what was permitted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you should have been watching this.

Sounds like you've never done this,

Correct. Correct.

I totally screwed up by not being there to watch and to put the brakes on.

Architect is like, 'I got this'. Mason is like, 'I got this'. I believed in them.

They got paid in American Currency. I got left with a problem to solve. Sigh.

So here I am. Moving forward ...

I need to hire another pro to fix this and I need to figure out the best easiest quality way to do it.

What kind of pro should I look for? Another mason? What should I specifically ask for so this doesn't happen again?

By the way, going to call architect tomorrow to see what he says. And then the township to see what they allow.

Again, all ideas and advice are welcomed. Thanks.
 

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Call the mason and tell him whats up, he will charge you a tree and a fiddy but it will be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I read it as a 36"X36" with a bottom 42" below grade. The a pier on top of that (with no dimentiones given for the footing thickness or the pier widths.

Two piers are at the appropriate elevation and one is 8" low. If it just for a porch roof, adding 8" height to pier adjacent to the house should be enough for bearing if that pier is taking half as much roof load as the center pier. You will need a clarification by the designer on the dimension and an approval by the inspector since it is a changed slightly from what was permitted.
Awesome. Thank you.
 

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Am I missing a dimension? What I see is the pier works out to be only 8". 10'8"+4"=11' which is overall dimension of 22' halfed. Looks to me like the 4" bearing is center of pier=8"? Making center pier also 8". Which would make an 8" lug or butt pier or pilaster? Could be my beer goggles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Drawings call out 36"×36" FTG (footing) for the piers?
Yes. Your are exactly correct.

So my excavator did the exactly correct thing. He had a concrete fabricator make those two piers as the architect specified and he dropped them in to place and backfilled them.

I'm thinking that my excavator is the only one who has done anything right so far?

So now I'm alone and looking at that nub sticking out from the foundation. And wondering what to do about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Am I missing a dimension? What I see is the pier works out to be only 8". 10'8"+4"=11' which is overall dimension of 22' halved. Looks to me like the 4" bearing is center of pier=8"? Making center pier also 8". Which would make an 8" lug or butt pier or pilaster? Could be my beer goggles?
I'm thinking that you're right.

My biggest issue is first raising it up to 8" above grade (8" added to height), and second (less important and optional) making it look like it doesn't clash visually in width with the other two piers.
 

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Lugs or peninsula pier as you call it are usually only 8" as they most often bear on the wall they butt. Add another course=8" in height. Mason must have used 10" block unless I'm not reading something right. You are talking CMU/ block on lug/pilaster?
 
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