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Need help quoting a metal door installation

693 Views 19 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  consideritdone.na
4
I am looking to help understand how to quote this project. Removal and installation of a metal door for a commercial restaurant. No idea how to even start. The door is currently installed into a cinder block.
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Easiest would be to get a quote from someone who knows how to do it, add your markup, and let them handle it.

You can’t get the stuff you need for it at Home Depot.


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Sometimes you see large flathead screws in about 3 places on each vertical where the frame is anchored to the cmu. I don't see any in the pictures. Makes me think the frame was secured with jamb anchors when the wall was built, and quite possibly filled with grout. No easy way to remove it.
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You going to ask how much to paint it too?
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Make sure you have a case of caulk handy


Mike
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I looked at one sometime back, ended up passing on it. Unless you are experienced with commercial doors personally I would pass it on to a commercial company. Could end up costing you more than you make. JMO

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Here's just part of the process..... I'd say you have to have a few notches in your belt to make a go of it.

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I wouldn’t let roofers replace fascia boards……


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I wouldn’t let roofers replace fascia boards……


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Was it the 3 inch roofing nails, the dead giveaway in the trim?
Was it the 3 inch roofing nails, the dead giveaway in the trim?
Actually, it was the cuts seemingly made with the hatchet. Atrocious


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I did not see that coming!
So your question is how to quote the project. Just hire a contractor so it is done right.
God damn, you guys are a bunch of assholes.


Figure out what the exact scope of work is. that is determine if you will replace just the door itself or the jamb and casing or what and price that from some source.

Don't forget if you need paint, sandpaper or anything else.

I suggest you add a markup to the material price.

Guess how much time you will spend on the project installing it, picking up parts, etc. and multiply the hours you come up with to the hourly charge you decide on.

Put it all together for a total and submit it to the customer.

Andy.
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God damn, you guys are a bunch of assholes.
Correct. It's getting like an incestuous little club.
Frame is likely tied into the block walls with wire clips laid between courses at 3-4 points each side, then frame slushed full of mortar. Demo is chop saw and hammer work, not easy.

After you get the frame out, clean up the jambs nice and smooth and replace with a new "thru fasten" frame and expansion anchors, sized to fit the opening. They make frames with 4" heads to work with block coursing, so you don't have that goofy 2" gap up top. Shim everything nice and plumb. tighten the anchors and caulk the jamb in place, set the threshold & caulk, install hinges and hang, install the hardware, then paint a couple coats. It's about a two day job for a good man. Panic hardware takes a lot longer than a standard lockset.

Commercial steel doors are best purchased from someplace that specializes in such. Typically lumber yard and big box store folks aren't very experienced with this stuff and you may wind up with some cheap lightweight junk if you by there. The big players in steel doors and frames are Steelcraft, Ceco and Republic around here.

Don't forget to allow for a secure, temporary overnight closure of the opening.
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. Typically lumber yard and big box store folks aren't very experienced with this stuff and you may wind up with some cheap lightweight junk if you by there.
But … but ... but … the guy at the Pro Desk at home depot said they could be very competitive on price. He seemed soooo knowledgeable …
Ok I agree I am an A$$hole. My father called me a dumb a$$hole my entire life. I went so far as to have signs made for my truck the said "Dumb *******" . He hated those signs.

But later it was pointed out to me that I am more of a hemorrhoid. Because hemorrhoids irritate A$$holes.

I stand by my suggestion that a contractor be hired. Up to OP about adding markup.
That is a welded hollow metal door frame. If it was set with the building it was installed before the block was laid and most definitely grouted. If it was replaced somewhere in the future it Is full of both grout and epoxy in the anchor holes.

You need a large cut off wheel to take it out in sections and to cut the anchors holding it in. You need to be careful and aware that you spend the time to get everything behind it both clean and flush for the new frame.

You are going to need a grout bag, the proper type of mortar, fast setting epoxy and possibly even someone who can tack weld. Unlike a knock down frame you don’t get extra chances if you get it set and realize it isn’t plumb or you didn’t predrill your holes deep enough and the anchors are setting up in the epoxy, or what I’ve seen a lot is guys pumping to much behind the frame causing it to bow (or in extreme cases, blow) the frame. There are also specifications on where to drill the new holes in a replacement as you don’t want to go into the existing. If you don’t know that in advance and have your manufacturer punch them in the correct place you could really mess up the frame.

As others have said if you aren’t familiar with it I would contact a commercial door company or a commercial contractor familiar with these types of installations.

It isn’t open heart surgery but you can absolutely cause yourself a lot of stress and problems, including financially, if you get to far ahead and realize you messed up.


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I'd cut the bottom out. Cut some foot long wedges and wedge the bottom of one jam out, use a wrecking bar to get one side pulled out and then do the same thing to the other side.
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Also don't forget to include the closer and a crash chain. There are multiple types based at a wide variety of price points. Some high end ones like LCN can only be purchased through distributors, some on Amazon. It doesn't look like it from the pictures, but some entrances need to be ADA compliant.
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