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Need help identifying this routed edge detail

7K views 54 replies 16 participants last post by  Kent Whitten 
#1 · (Edited)
Trying to cut this
These are
1 in thick stiles and rails


Wood stain Wood Molding Tan Chest of drawers
 
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#10 ·
Hmm interesting. The thing is this guy who made it isn't a production cab company. It was made out of a small local shop. He called it a French bead. But I see what your saying.

So far haven't seen anything close. I wonder if it has to have two passes one on each side
 
#18 ·
That is an applied bead. Use the bit posted. They make all sorts of sizes, but it's probably 1/4" with a 1/16" shoulder.

Even the interior molding is applied.

Would it be easier with a molder? Sure. But you can easily get that with applied moldings.
 
#26 ·
Applied means that you start with a base door frame, a simple one, and apply a molding to it to give some details.

In your case, you have a very basic square edge frame, mitered, then roundover on the outside edge. Looks like a good 1/4" or 3/8" radius.

Next is the very outside detail. It's a shouldered bead. It's usually 5/16 " thick. The half round part is 1/4" with a 1/16" step or shoulder. You set up and cut the thin pieces and apply them to the outside of the base frame that you already have. Usually a pin nailer and glue to give you invisible fasteners.

The inside molding is applied the same way. Cut and pin nail. Sand everything and plug the little pin holes if you like. I personally would.

Or just order them :laughing:

It's a lot of work. If you have a few doors, you can do it like I said. 20 doors and I would order them.

That bead detail is a simple router bit on a router table. You can get it just about anywhere.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Are you sure you want to tackle this?

Applied bead - a piece of bead (molding) was made, and then attached (applied) to the outside edge of the rails and styles. You have to measure what you have to see the exact dimensions used, and use a bead router bit or molding cutter to duplicate it. If you want an exact match, you'll need to have one custom made.

Shoulder - look at the picture a router bit posted by JLS. The shoulder is the flat part of the profile down by the bearing.

From the picture, my best guess is the rails and styles had a rounding bit used on the edges, a separate molding was made with a beading bit and applied. The exact dimensions of what you need to duplicate it have to be measured off of the door.

Edit - too slow on this post - same as Kent's but his has pictures

wow thanks guys...

Also, when i look at the backside of the door, i cannot see a seam or joint of where the applied moulding meets the door. it totally looks like one solid piece...so thats why i was thinking its solid wood and just routed
 
#37 ·
Decore Ative Specialties
Charleston #388

You need a pin router for the solid drawer front if you make it yourself from a solid piece.

View attachment 106342

http://www.decore.com/products/doors-and-drawer-fronts/charleston-388-cabinet-doors
Whoa that looks like the EXACT same door I have. Now wondering if the guy I bought from really made them. Decorative coincidentally is a few miles down the road from him too. They guy does have a small factory type workshop and says he makes his doors
 
#36 ·
Is it possible that the panel covers the whole back of the door and is 1/4" or 1/2" thick. The stiles and rails are 3/4 or 1/2 and are applied to the ply, the bed mold is applied and the bead is applied which covers the side seams?

OP said there is no seam on the back, which would indicate not a typical door construction.
 
#40 ·
richpuer said:
Whoa that looks like the EXACT same door I have. Now wondering if the guy I bought from really made them. Decorative coincidentally is a few miles down the road from him too. They guy does have a small factory type workshop and says he makes his doors
Can you figure out how much per square foot you paid?

Depending on the material, this door costs about $25 sq ft.

5 PC drawer fronts are door price + $15 each. These would be any fronts that are under the minimum door size. Probably something like 8 1/2" x 8 1/2" as a minimum door size, and minimum 5pc drawer front of 6 1/2" with cut down stile and rails.

This door has nine parts ( If you were to back band the bead on, you are up to 13 parts). Eight of them are double mitered.It would be extremely difficult for a small shop to compete on price and quality with a large scale door manufacturer.

I know there are some very talented guys out there that could produce a door like this one. But at what cost? Could they make an 18" x 24" door from rough to finish ready for $75 ? More power to you if you can, I can't.
 
#44 ·
Pin nails are used to hold the biscuit in there, kind of keeping those miters as tight as they can, since they will open over time and all.

You know...you can run the beading bit on a piece that is, say 2-1/2" or 2-3/4" wide, miter the doors, then apply just the center molding. Or you can order. Not sure why there is such a discussion about this. If you have a few doors, make them. If you have like 20, just buy them. Especially if the door company is right there.
 
#46 ·
Yes I'm going to try that anyway. Just wanted to know for my own personal knowledge. I just love doors made with the edge bead and if I could make it easily with stuff lying around in my current shop, I'd be happy. Sometimes the ordering is about lead times can put me at disadvantages. Anyhow it also seems much more expensive to order than to make myself.
 
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