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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a client that needs siding, specifically Hardie or LP Smart Side. The problem I have or the advice I need is they want to cover the concrete block on the garage. Never been in this situation. My initial thought is to run green 1by's to the block then attach siding to it but, without screwing (hugh time waster) it I'm not sure how well it's going to hold over time. After spending a lot of time on here yesterday I saw Siding Master, which I see no one is real big fan of, guy comes off as a jackass, but seems like that could work for the situation I have, IDK.

Been doing alot of reading here and there's some really good stuff! A lot of very knowledgeable people. Any advise is greatly appreciated, Thanks.
 

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I might be wrong but I dont think Siding master is used for anything but vinyl. From your picture it looks like once you tear off the old clap board, you'll need to strip the entire wall to plane out. Once you get a rythym down, it's not that big of a deal to tap-con the block.
I have no idea if you can install Hardi over fir strips only.
 

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I might be wrong but I dont think Siding master is used for anything but vinyl. From your picture it looks like once you tear off the old clap board, you'll need to strip the entire wall to plane out. Once you get a rythym down, it's not that big of a deal to tap-con the block.
I have no idea if you can install Hardi over fir strips only.
i AGREE 100% THATS THE WAY WE HAVE DONE IT ON A FEW PROJECTS .GOOD LUCK :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks... So, would you tapcon the Hardi to the block as well? My idea was to step the wall seperating the garage to the house with some 8" miratec and flash.
 

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We've had good results with this fastener.
You may need to use 5/4 PT for cement siding.
Set up a bunch,side by side,have someone predrill pilot hole (size of pin)and use a flat bit to recess the head,hold up to wall,use masonary bit to drill through at predrilled locations,set your first pin(top),plumb and continue to attach.

With this fastener you won't have to worry about snapping or stripped heads.Just push in and set the nail head.

I don't know enough about fastening the Hardi,but it seems you may need too short of a nail with any kind of furring.

If it was my job to bid,and they were dead set on the cement siding,I would go with a full 2x flat,and build a small overhang at the height of the rim joist to hide the transition to the upper plane.The voids between the furring would be suseptable to breakage if hit hard enough,so probably should be filled with insulation to match furring.
Not a inexpensive fix.Good luck!
 

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ALL VINYL
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Leveling wall

THE answer that I see is shoot 5/4 x3 over concert (as long as it is not cinder) install a leveling board /backer board insulation over top 3/4 " level the top to match with 1x2 -lath what ever it takes to make transition. Then screw or nail your hardi over top with the proper size nail or screw (depends on backer used)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oldfrt - that looks good, I should have thought of those fasteners. thanks for the advise.

I have to applogize to the SidingMaster for saying what I said. I really think that his design will work for what I need. I sent him an e-mail and got a call back right away. He's very knowledgeable and does have a system called Furring Master that will work with Hardi and think that will work great with block issue I have. I think the green fur stripe can work but, you can hardly ever find straight ones and as soon as I screw something in it's just going to split the wood! So, then what? Over time I just don't know if that way is going to last. Unless I go with a 2x, which I'm not crazy about.
 
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