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Radical Basement Dweller
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Robie.........your jig looks simple enough to make. Few questions: you drilled the holes, then ripped the board in two pieces down the middle of the holes? Yes...3/4" holes and the router bushing is 7/8". It just goes in the half round hole enough to center it.

What size hole for the router collar? 3/4"? Cant quite make out the end details. The one template is fixed and the other moves in the groove? Is there a tongue on the end of that template to keep it tracking in the groove? or do the washers and bolts keep it in the groove? thanks
Yes the end is stationary. The slot is just wide enough for the lag bolts to slide through...no tongue.
The board is wide enough that as long as it's flush against the end slotted piece, it's square. The two lags tightened automatically square it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Robie........do you use a 1/4" or 5mm spiral router bit for the holes? Upcut or downcut? Last night after some Google searches I found the plans for the jig on the Woodworkers Gazette. Not sure if I have time to make it yet for this job , but definitely in the near future. Did you use a 3/4" Forstner Bit to drill the holes in the jig? The plans call for using a brad point bit, but I dont have that size. I would think a Forstner bit would do nice job and make a nice smooth hole. Thanks for the info. Dale
 

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Radical Basement Dweller
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Yup...3/4" Forstner with a fresh backing spot for each hole and it's a 1/4" down spiral bit.
 

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Home Repairs
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Nice thread guys. I usually venture over to a woodworking forum for a answer like this. Those beavers come up with some really cool ideas to work around things. :)
 

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Robie said:
I used that method for years. The problem I had was that the hole was never "clean". The down spiral router bit leaves a perfect hole that doesn't need any other attention.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the tip, I will need to keep that in mind. I don't build enough built ins or cabinets rite now to buy a specialized jig ,so I think this trick will work for me for now.
Trim..... If you are not a fine cabinet shop, I've vever had one problem with your system and a sharp or brad point drill.
 

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Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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We have the plexi one from Rockler. We use the spring loaded bits. We have one 1/4" and one 5mm. They work great and have never had tear out even in melamine. I like it because we can use it inside a cabinet if we want to add holes.

http://www.rockler.com/jig-itreg-sh..._campaign=PL&gclid=CLeoquL_0LwCFeg-Mgodn34AhA
You just sold me on this jig. Had a client recently decide they wanted shelves, after they had initially said they didn't want them in the refrigerator cabinet. :thumbup:
 

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Always Learning
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pinwheel said:
You just sold me on this jig. Had a client recently decide they wanted shelves, after they had initially said they didn't want them in the refrigerator cabinet. :thumbup:
As a side not, we haven't used the 1/4" bit since we added the 5mm bit. I like the smaller size and the pins are what we use in all our cabinets so we always have plenty.
 

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As a side not, we haven't used the 1/4" bit since we added the 5mm bit. I like the smaller size and the pins are what we use in all our cabinets so we always have plenty.
We use the 1/4" pins, I buy them by the thousands, so I've got always got em in stock.

Guess it goes back to my hard headed youth days of resisting all things metric.:laughing:
 

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I go down to my buddy's cabinet shop and use his line boring machine :) I like to put adjustable shelves in closets and pantries.
We did the same, and paid for the efficiency. Then we bought a Delta line boring machine last year. :thumbsup:

Ive also used MDF jigs many times
 
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