Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Never needed one until now. I see Kreg has a nice little jig that can be stacked for longer lengths. Also see one at Woodcraft by Wood River. That one can be used with either a special spring loaded drill bit or 1/4" router bit with 3/8" collar in a plunge router. I think the drill bit might tear out a bit more than the router bit. Any opinions on either, or any reasonably priced alternatives? Production speed is not really a factor for me, i usually just build a small number of cabinets and probably wont use it again for awhile. Im more interested in the accuracy of the holes so the shelves dont rock.;)
 

·
Radical Basement Dweller
Joined
·
27,086 Posts
I made mine from Woodsmith plans. It will handle 6' stock and is width adjustable. It is made to be used with a plunge router.
Let me know if you want further info or pictures.
 
  • Like
Reactions: dale rex

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Robie, sent you a private message for more info. Pics and specs or link to plans maybe? Thanks Dale
 

·
Radical Basement Dweller
Joined
·
27,086 Posts
Here it is. I'll have to look to see what issue of Woodsmith it was in. Very easy to use.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,517 Posts
I have one I made out of plexi and use it with a Vix bit.Sometimes you have to drill holes in assembled cabinets and the ones that use a router just won't work.Made it from plexi with a ledger board on the edge that is removable.Drill one hole then put a registration pin in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Hi there,I am still new here and don't post often,but get great info from the site. So I thought I would throw my suggestion in. I read some where that peg board works real well, cut it to size and tape over the holes you don't want to use. The holes are evenly spaced and you can custom fit to the job at hand if you don't need the jig often. Haven't tried it yet but defanatly going to on my next built ins.
 

·
Radical Basement Dweller
Joined
·
27,086 Posts
Hi there,I am still new here and don't post often,but get great info from the site. So I thought I would throw my suggestion in. I read some where that peg board works real well, cut it to size and tape over the holes you don't want to use. The holes are evenly spaced and you can custom fit to the job at hand if you don't need the jig often. Haven't tried it yet but defanatly going to on my next built ins.
I used that method for years. The problem I had was that the hole was never "clean". The down spiral router bit leaves a perfect hole that doesn't need any other attention.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Robie said:
I used that method for years. The problem I had was that the hole was never "clean". The down spiral router bit leaves a perfect hole that doesn't need any other attention.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the tip, I will need to keep that in mind. I don't build enough built ins or cabinets rite now to buy a specialized jig ,so I think this trick will work for me for now.
 

·
Radical Basement Dweller
Joined
·
27,086 Posts
Robie said:
I used that method for years. The problem I had was that the hole was never "clean". The down spiral router bit leaves a perfect hole that doesn't need any other attention.[/QUOTE

Thanks for the tip, I will need to keep that in mind. I don't build enough built ins or cabinets rite now to buy a specialized jig ,so I think this trick will work for me for now.
Make sure you keep the pegboard oriented properly with each side so your holes line up back to front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,864 Posts
I found using a corded drill with higher speed reduces tearout. I just bought a small Ridgid drill at the Depot dedicated to this. I use the Rockler jig. It works well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Robie.........your jig looks simple enough to make. Few questions: you drilled the holes, then ripped the board in two pieces down the middle of the holes? What size hole for the router collar? 3/4"? Cant quite make out the end details. The one template is fixed and the other moves in the groove? Is there a tongue on the end of that template to keep it tracking in the groove? or do the washers and bolts keep it in the groove? thanks
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts
Top