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Shimming the guard up is a disaster waiting to happen.
I have to agree with the above statement .Also add "why can't we have saw with a guard that doesn't catch" .I would prefer to have the better saw up front then use one I need to monkey with to make good cuts .
 

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I was working with a guy who pinned my guard and I didn't realize it. Went to use it and pulled out of the cut to set it down and cut the front if my favorite jacket in half. I about ripped him off the plank.
 

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DeWalt DW378

The DeWalt DW378 is the best circular saw I have ever used. They no longer make these new but they are readily available on ebay for reasonable prices. The blade guard is second to none. It hangs up on nothing at any angle. Hope this helps.
 

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If you have the blade depth set correctly it won't hang up. I can't emagine dragging the track saw out every time I need to rip a 2by. Not to mention the ts55 is under powered for ripping a 2by.
 

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If you have the blade depth set correctly it won't hang up. I can't emagine dragging the track saw out every time I need to rip a 2by. Not to mention the ts55 is under powered for ripping a 2by.
This is a 45º bevel rip 48 tooth blade TS-55. 28 or 12 tooth blade and it cuts faster, just more tooth marks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nRyR7YlD8s

I rip 8/4 hardwoods all the time with it. Sharp blade, never had a problem.

Tom
 

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You mean framers right? I can't imagine trimming a house, remodeling a kitchen, installing built-ins etc without having a table saw on site.
No I ment what I said. Carpenters that build forms. When forming stairs or elevation changes you have to 45° the bottom edge so the finishers can finish all the way to the riser.
 

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This is a 45º bevel rip 48 tooth blade TS-55. 28 or 12 tooth blade and it cuts faster, just more tooth marks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nRyR7YlD8s

I rip 8/4 hardwoods all the time with it. Sharp blade, never had a problem.

Tom
So your saying you bring your track saw out for framing. And in a situation that an 8th doesn't matter, and it's not at least twice as slow as a worm drive.

I have sharp blades for my ts55. Your not talking to someone that doesn't have that saw. I'm just willing to admit that it's under powered for some applications. Run it next to the makita. Then get back to me.
 

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So your saying you bring your track saw out for framing. And in a situation that an 8th doesn't matter, and it's not at least twice as slow as a worm drive.

I have sharp blades for my ts55. Your not talking to someone that doesn't have that saw. I'm just willing to admit that it's under powered for some applications. Run it next to the makita. Then get back to me.
All it needs is enough power to do the job. I do not believe I know anyone who owns a Makita. I need that much more power I own a 75.

I do only remodeling, so an 1/8th matters when you're trying to match existing floors and roofs.

My track saw pretty much goes to every job.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Hey guys, I'm the op. Sorry I haven't been around to throw my 2 cents in. Been out of town.
Anyway, my initial issue was cutting 45 degree rip cuts in 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc. I build a lot of pergolas and many of them have rafter tails cut at 45 and every flippin time my guard hangs up even with depth set properly. I use a Porter Cable sidewinder and a Dewalt worm.
Yes, the ol carpenter pencil trick I have done. Did it last week in fact and spaced the guard being back and came within an 1/8" of laying the blade into my groin (putting it nicely) after the cut.
I hate locking the blade up! Won't do it anymore.
Either they need to make a better guard that moves easily on any cut or possibly a blade brake (shut it down immediately)- then I might use the pencil again.
That video in an earlier post of the finger trigger is pretty cool. I'd have to buy a new saw but that's ok.
Thanks guys.
 

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I'll say it again, at least look at the dewalt sidewinder it has a great guard and is cheap. Around here you can find it for $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It pretty obvious that the guys that design these tools don't use the tools themselves.
I just went cruising through Home Depot's website and from what I saw every sidewinder is a right side blade- pretty tough to see your cut marks when your right handed. You have to go worm to get a left side blade. But yet the battery operated sidewinders are left side blades. None of it makes any sense.
I'll probably end up with the appropriate worm and use that trigger attachment. I'm just not a huge fan of worms because of their weight. Guess I'll have to get used to it.
 

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I just got used to pulling the guard up manually on each cut, it was easy with the guards on my saws (B&D Super Sawcats). Have to use two hands though, at least to start. Using a guide (e.g. framing square) pulling the guard up wasn't necessary, used to make some bevels in wide stock that way. YMMV

Got used to always wearing glasses for framing, usually sunglasses, which made it possible to lean across to see the cut line on the sidewinders (keep your mouth shut though LOL). Eye protection is a good idea IMO, lots of small orts flying around while cutting and nailing.
 

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Porter Cable used to make a left hand Side Winder--the 743, Bosch still does.

I have the Porter Cable, it works great. My favorite is the old PC Saw Boss. Super light, super powerful, 6" blades are hard to find. Everyone laughs when i drag it out on a job site until they use it...
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yup, the 743 is what I have. I love the saw except for the guard. But, sounds pretty much like all saws suffer the same flaw.
I realize all have a hand lever but when your holding a speed square with one hand and the saw with the other.... Yes, I've been known to grab the lever with my mouth. Haha
 
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