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Just Jennifer - The Paint
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What do you think of this sterling job. They glued a flange into the waste pipe with silicone caulking. No surface repair so there is not a single bolt holding the flange to the UNEVEN floor. The flange itself is not level. Toilet goes in tomorrow. I am not optimistic about the longevity of this job.
 

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Can it be pried up, or is it solid? If it moves, you need it screwed down to the floor.

It appears to be too high to allow a toilet to rest on the floor all around. Dry test to see. You might need a lot of shimming, or setting it on plaster so it doesn't rock. Once it's down, seal around the base with adhesive caulk and it should be fine.
 

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What do you think of this sterling job. They glued a flange into the waste pipe with silicone caulking. No surface repair so there is not a single bolt holding the flange to the UNEVEN floor. The flange itself is not level. Toilet goes in tomorrow. I am not optimistic about the longevity of this job.
Did they give you a quote to do it right and you decided not to go the "expensive" way and do it right (i.e. - floor repair in conjunction with flange replacement) but take a chance because there's tile involved? If you KNOW it's not right, why are still going ahead with the toilet install just to invite more problems?

Sometimes sucks having to put out money for proper repairs but suck even more to put out money for a band-aid fix only to have to re-address it later and do it right at a higher cost because now you have to also pay for replacement of materials, and added labor to remove and reinstall the toilet...

Time to re-evaluate now before the install of the toilet... best of luck... (y)
 

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It's fixable, little it of tile comes up, scrape floor and there is a 2 part metal flange that slips under closet flange and gets screwed to the floor. Its square, mu plumber uses them a lot since he works in lots of old houses.
Toilet covers everything.

I think the hole is a bit big but not rotted, wax squeeze out is on the floor which can look like rot
 

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Thats a 3" repair flange, sometimes plumbers use silicone on the rubber gaskets to get it to slip in easier and once dry is can help the seal. There is no pressure in that pipe just gravity and the repair flange drops 3 or 4 inches past the floor. My plumber uses it when the elbow is secure and you cant get to the underside of the flange.
I just asked him, he said the giveaway is the split UPC label. The outer ring can spin on the rest of the fitting so the holes can be lined up.
 

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Just Jennifer - The Paint
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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Did they give you a quote to do it right and you decided not to go the "expensive" way and do it right (i.e. - floor repair in conjunction with flange replacement) but take a chance because there's tile involved? If you KNOW it's not right, why are still going ahead with the toilet install just to invite more problems?

Sometimes sucks having to put out money for proper repairs but suck even more to put out money for a band-aid fix only to have to re-address it later and do it right at a higher cost because now you have to also pay for replacement of materials, and added labor to remove and reinstall the toilet...

Time to re-evaluate now before the install of the toilet... best of luck... (y)
We had agreed to the more expensive floor repair prior to setting the flange. That was my first request at first contact. The guy said, sure, he "can do the job, no problem". He was to come and give an estimate and outline the scope of the work. Well, he didn't come but sent his 4th year apprentice. I left him to look at the job and estimate what was to be done & cost, minutes later I hear the angle grinder and the guy is starting the work with no estimate, no paper quote with an outline of what is going to happen. Very not impressed! The boss called seconds after his guy left haing put the toilet in. Does not understand why I am so very displeased. I told him, that is not what we discussed, it is not sound and your guy on thinking the silicone fix was not sound enough tried driving bolts at an angle into an unsound floor. The boss starts to tell me a proper fix was not possible. I COULD HAVE FIXED THE DANGED FLOOR! All that was required was to shield the pipes and leave expansion room, level the floor in the area the toilet will be sitting AND THEN proceed with the flange install. Apparently, they decided that was all to much trouble. IT WAS NEVER A QUESTION OF COST! I told him right off, I was more concerned about the quality of the repair than the cost. He said, "Well, I'm not cheap, but I'm not the most expensive." I said, I was OK with that. (Oh, and apparently they used 2 packs of shims to get the toilet sitting straight)

I don't do cheap when repairing and prepping plaster wall for my clients. If they don't want a job done right, I refuse the work. I want to hire other trades that work the same way, done right or not at all!
So far, since moving to this city, I have found a GREAT "structural and cladding" company that does framing and steel cladding. I have used them twice. roof, dormer & gable ends, (NOT CHEAP!) and will have a major garage job for them in the not to distant future. I was so pleased that both times, they got a $500 Tip. I found an excellent insulation company and no complaints there. The bane of my life seems to be plumbers. I just can not find a company I want for major work. I haven't even started on electric, yet.
 
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