the reason i ask is im trying to save time and get the best quality work possible. but not cut down on quality.

 

I know a lot of people lay mesh tape down, and put premix over it. That's improper. Mesh tape should be embedded in a first coat of hot mud.

I equate mesh tape under a first coat to rebar on the bottom of a concrete slab.

 

No, I am pretty sure that putting the mesh tape on first is the proper way.

Kinda silly for it to come with an adhesive on it if you had to use an imbedding coat.

And the rebar example sounds good, but two different principles are at play. The purpose of rebar is to keep the concrete in a state of compression and drywall tape is to bond the two sheet together.

 

i use paper tape most of the time, but what i do is i put a coat of mud on the wall stick the tape then take my knife and go over it at a firm 45 degree angle and when that drys i go over it with at least two finish coats sometimes three if i feel it needs it. but i saw some adheasive in a spray can which im assuming is for that paper tape spraying it then sticking it. does it work and how well. or am i better sticking with the way i have been doing it.

 

I am not positive but I think the spray adhesive is for sticking the plastic corner beads and such on.

 

If you want to save time - mix your finish mud wet, run the tape through the thin mud, (they make boxes for this) then apply the tape to the wall and skim.

I've seen drywallers who just use the dw box to hold the mud, and they hang the box around their neck.

If you go to a drywall tool store (even online) there are all kinds of tools to speed up the job.

 

Not a full-time dw-er - but one of my guys was raving about spray adheisive.... I let him try it on the corners and it blew chunks. Did not stick...

 

I always mud the wall then stick my tape then tape two coats over that some times three. Is that how everyone else does it or do any of you use the spray can adheasive to stick the tape to the walls then mud over that. MY only concern is how long will the adheasive last?

Go with your gut.:thumbsup:
Embed the tape in mud or usr fiber-tape with hot mud.:thumbup:

-Paul

 

with hot mud.:thumbup:

-Paul

How hot? I noticed when I picked up a batch of mud from local dw supplier, it was toasty warm!

Also - is taping mud overrated?

M

 

well i used to use the fiber glass mesh tape but when ever i had to sand some of it, it alwasy ripped up a few starands of the fiber glass and pI$$$$ me off because it took more time to cut the little strands out and remud a thin layer then it was worth. so i switched to paper and been great for the most part with a few exceptions of the tape not sticking in a few spots once in a while.

 

Sounds to me like your still learning..............But I think you'll figure it all out. :thumbsup:

 

Spray adhesive works with the trimtex crap but thats it. We had a crew that used the stuff but the voids remained behind the bead and we were constantly cutting out spots during punch out. Nothing beats metal bead, hot mud, and paper tape.

 

I agree with 95% of the things you say on this board but metal corner bead is junk. The statistical incidence of metal corner bead failing it pretty crazy when compared to products like no-coat bead which when applied properly is almost guaranteed not to fail.

 

If this was the diy forum id say use plaster of paris :laughing:

You should check it out disanto!

 

The only way I know to speed up the process is to use the hot mud and fiber tape. I had the issue with the fibers as well so I went a little heavy on the first coat and spread out the second and third coat. You will get the hang of it pretty fast. Good luck!!

 

Yes, stay away from the spray adhesive in my opinion. I used 3M brand (thought it would be good) on 1 job in my own house, and part of it failed & had to be re-done. The rest of it was hard to work with, but is still holding 2+ yrs later.

 

I think you are right. The 3M adhesive is junk. I have used it before and the adhesion was inconsistent.... and the paper bead that I applied had alot of air pockets. Maxi-Tack is the way to go. I have never had a failure other than "my own" goof ups while using it.

 

I have used Maxi-Tack spray adhesive for many years. I have used it for paper corner bead, StraitFlex, plastic bullnose, and with paper tape. I walk by repairs that I did 10 years ago and it still holding strong. You need to work really fast if using paper tape because the adhesive tacks up really fast and the paper is flimsy to work with.. It is a trial and error thing. The more you use it, the more confident you are.

 

I actually tested the strength of straight flex once, with three different applications. I used some 2x4 to build 3 inside corners that I could later put under stress to see how the material would hold up.

My purpose for doing this was to see how spray adhesive would hold up compared to hot mud and joint compound. This was a few years ago and I can’t remember what brand of spray adhesive I used but it did not hold the corner as well as the mud. I’m certain that I did not use maxi – tack since this forum is the first I’ve heard of it, maybe it would work better. The problem that I saw with the straight flex and spray adhesive was, it bonded well to the paper on the drywall but the paper tore away from the drywall. Not sure if that make sense, simply put it took considerably less force for this type of corner to fail.

Just my opinion, it seems that mesh tape would be easier to apply and finish on butts and tapered seams, in comparison to spray add. I only use paper on my inside corners.

 

Is this a joke?!

Are people seriously talking about using a spray adhesive for holding paper tape to drywall!?!?
No....
I cant believe im even hearing this...
Why hasn't anybody firmly stepped up and said "wtf!? Is this a joke!?"
I dont know how things are done everywhere else in the world but in canada, thats just ridiculous.

I've just signed up and am new to this site so im not familiar with all the terms everyone else is using, based on what I gather HotMud is like SheetRock? The faster drying chemical dry? We just call it Sheetrock 90, 45 or 20.

But anyways, Spray Adhesive is for Vinyl Beads only! Like Trim Tex products. Which I am a fan of.
Spray adhesive shouldnt be used on any type of paper tape or paper bead or fiber tape or ultraflex or straightflex. Vinyl only.

If you use FiberTape, the mesh goes directly onto the drywall seem! Somebody else made a good point i read; it comes with an adhesive on the back. Its not ment to be mudded in place. If you use fibertape, once its adhered to the wall you must use a sheetrock product for the
1st coat. Or hotmud as most of you call it. Then finish over with regular drywall compound.

If using paper tape (which I strongly reccomend over fiber tape, but to each his own), use regular drywall compound, mud your seem first, then put your paper tape on top and wipe the tape firmly into place.
Pulling the majority of the mud out from the sides of the tape and embedding it in place.

Thats how its done! :thumbsup:

 

Precision Taping said it for me.

I also prefer paper tape to mesh tape but some will disagree.

Only thing I disagree with from Precision Tapes comment is NEVER use regular mud to embed tape, it wont stick very well.

Use taping mud which has glue in it to hold the tape to the wall. If taping mud is not available in your area some pros use all purpose mud.

That spray glue is for attaching vinyl bead to corners not tape!

 

Ya you are right buddy. I shouldnt have said "regular" drywall compound. I only use CGC Machine Mud. Only! And we use it for everything. Taping, Beads, Coating, Finishing.
I find its just perfect for everything. Never bubbles on me and finishes very smoothly and sands nicely. That to me is the best mud. And im pretty sure its just regular mud...
http://www.cgcinc.com/media/29336/ejc_1621.pdf
It just says for mechanical and hand taping on the box...
Anyways, thats what I meant. Sorry for the mix up.
Of course you want to use a compound that has some glue in it to better hold the tape.
Thanks for clarifying my statement MudShark.

 

in these parts most tapers use adhesive for corner bead along with staples then they tape the bead as well. Most of the work we come in contact with is level 4 & 5 commercial work. All smooth wall no texture

ML

 

ya, Spray and staple vinyl beads though right?
Not paper?....

 

ya right on!
We deffinetly dont want people spraying paper tape and beads on!
So wrong...lol.

 

And dont be silly enough to watch a Myron Ferguson Video and think that is the right way to do things.

He really is a joke with the professional drywallers

 

Hahaha! For the sake of argument let's just as well do everything opposite what Myron Ferguson does!
Haha! I've been chewing him up hard on drywall talk. Which is funny...I really have no reason too...I just don't like him :laughing:

PrecisionTaping nailed it on this one. Spray adhesive is for TrimTex and products like that.

Someone said they use spray adhesive for straitflex / no-coat. That's a pretty scary thought. I can't tell you how many times we have fixed other tapers work because they've done; including a building with 40+ condos where every piece of no-coat corner bead failed. I know no-coat strictly calls for a joint compound application, I think straitflex is the same.

I know! I did a job like that not long ago where the contractor was strapped for time so he told me he'd get his guys to do the board until I was able to free up my schedule and get their. A couple days later he called me back and said "can my guys start the beads for you too?" and I told him "well i'll be there tomorrow to get started" and he said "well it will give my guys something to do today" so I said "sure, of they know what they're doing."

Long story short.
They had no FLIPPEN CLUE what they were doing!
They used trim tex spray adhesive on all paper beads. Including No-Coat on inside and outside 45's :no:
First thing I did when I got there was tell the contractor "okay, have all your guys who put these on yesterday, rip them all off!" haha!:laughing:

I agree with 95% of the things you say on this board but metal corner bead is junk. The statistical incidence of metal corner bead failing it pretty crazy when compared to products like no-coat bead which when applied properly is almost guaranteed not to fail.

I 2nd that!

 

PrecisionTaping nailed it on this one. Spray adhesive is for TrimTex and products like that.

Someone said they use spray adhesive for straitflex / no-coat. That's a pretty scary thought. I can't tell you how many times we have fixed other tapers work because they've done; including a building with 40+ condos where every piece of no-coat corner bead failed. I know no-coat strictly calls for a joint compound application, I think straitflex is the same.

 

I think if you were supposed to use adhesive on tape, they would have made it self sticking many moons ago.

 

And thats why they did invent Mesh tape.
Which still sucks! But they did invent it.

But no spray adhesive on paper tape! :no:

 

Right on PT.

All one has to do is go to YouTube and search for drywall or drywall taping and all sorts of videos show up, some good some bad. PT has some good ones up but believe me there is some real hacks out there posting videos as if they know what they are doing (they don't). Myron Ferguson fits that last category. I am afraid he would not last in the real world if he had to do some production work. It reminds me of that old saying:

If you can, do
If you can't, teach

 

And that's why we DO!
I just happen to have a camera filming me as I work :whistling
Im not teaching. :laughing: haha. Just working.

 

Everyone's doing YouTube videos now.. Has got me thinking I should do a video to show people how to use USG Tuff-Hide. A lot of people posting on this board wanting to use it but having no idea how to use it. Then people who don't know how to use it start chiming in with dumb recommendations

 

Do it up JMC! Show em how it's done!
Also, im just gonna ignore that last comment Rob

 

I know a lot of people lay mesh tape down, and put premix over it. That's improper. Mesh tape should be embedded in a first coat of hot mud.

I equate mesh tape under a first coat to rebar on the bottom of a concrete slab.

Uh, what's wrong with putting mesh down first??? Why do you think it has an adhesive on it?? It is DESIGNED to contact the boards, that is the whole point. To put on a coat of mud is of no benefit, as the tape is now floating between two coats of mud . I have always done it that way, never had an issue in 15 years.