I will look into the Hilti but I need to find a local source.
Good call, clock plugs rock, failing that get some 90 degree adaptors. On that note if you are using a low-pro bracket and HDMI get yourself a swivle connector before you snap the end off that expensive cable.:shutup:if the electrical outlet is behind the TV, make sure there is enough clearance for the plug .... (experience talking)
Out of curiosity, did the TV manufacturer have any recommendations for your installation situation?
Have you ever asked a TV company about mounting their products?
Not in a situation such as you describe. I was just checking. Believe or not, many don't even think to talk to the manufacturer of the products they install to see what they recommend.
Thanks for the tip! Never would have thought of that one.If your tapcons strip out like we all have had happen. Just stick a piece of 12g solid copper wire in the hole then screw the tapcon back in. It holds like you would not believe.
Articulated arms have such different loads on the fastners. The arms are basically trying to pull out the top screws, where flat mounts are testing the shear stregnth of the fastners. It really doesn't take much to hold a flat mount bracket, but a swing arm needs some serious care.I have a put up a few big tv's I would recomend using what ever size fastner the mount says to use. The last one wanted 6 3/8" lags into studs. IT was a huge plasma on an adjustable arm thing.
I'm glad all went well!
If he was talking about snap toggles, he was right. The pullout and shear strength of those, believe it or not, are far superior to regular toggles and pretty much anything else you'd use for hanging on drywall or plaster. I hung a 75# Venetian glass mirror with them and didn't lose a seconds sleep over it....and I didn't hit any studs because of the specific location. BTW, the cost of the mirror was $8G (Venetian glass is very expensive), so the attachment to the wall was not something I took lightly. Check them out, they are the real deal. They also have different sizes and I tend to go with as large of size as practical.
Vertical shear of a mirror when it flat on the wall is one thing. Cantilever of a Big Screen TV standing off the wall 4" in yet another thing. If it is all the same to you I will avoid testing my luck on a customers wall.
Thanks, Les! And to you as well!Merry Christmas!!
Les, glad to hear it went well.
As for togglers they will easily hold a flat pannel UNLESS it gets bumped or the drywall gets wet. I use thoes zip-tie ones in hollow block and they work great for mounting all sorts of stuff, cameras tvs etc, you can remote the bolt and the anchor holds in place unlike a normal toggle that would fall in, or a tapcon that would ream out after screwing in twice. In block they have excellent holding power.
Moen offers hollow wall anchors that are rate for 150 static, a variation of the ones for grab bars.