this weather absolutely is the worst for this sort of work, tons of router dust, rain, if I had a choice between a $h!tload or routering and rain, and mud, i'd choose mud
A couple questions Bone. Why is the temp wall bumped out a couple of inches from the deck?
Not really a question, but I thought you doubled up the stringers & notched in the tread on those curved stairs, this one you have metal brackets to fasten the treads to.
BTW, thanks for posting up pics & all for this job. This old dog might learn a new trick & give that a try. I have a redo coming up that one of those would look really cool on. Looking at your pics tho could mislead me (getting me to thinking I could pull it off) & get me in trouble.
st- cole's right, temporary form, all that hem fir that I used for the wall will not be wasted except for the 2 2x12x10' that make up the top and bottom plate, the studs I get em as 10's from my supplier and return em back as 8"s so it all works out.
Jonmon appreciate the complimentary words very much,
al I mortised the treads and stringers on the last one and it was a total *****, there were still stair angles on that one too, so the net end result was no different than whats going on here, as far as the 4" offset between the deck and the stairs is for the outboard railpost installation, lemme see if I can dig up another shot
You have taken the weak point pt lumber has,very unstable while wet, and turned it into a strong point. Bril..int. BoneMon you would not belive how long it takes to do that with Lams/glue/ clamps. J.
I wouldn't even know, or want to know the math involved to figure this out, not that it couldn't be done, that's why it really needs to be done on autocad or sketchup, I'm not proficient in sketchup so I do it in autocad. The key is in the tread shape, you are really just pulling the respective inner radii with a tape onto your tread stock, from your "pie shaped" tread you can determine the arc length (run) and layout the stringer flat like any other stringer. you HAVE to trust the geometry or you will have problems, ratchet straps and brute force, wet pieces with no knots, good grain patterns and no cupping or edge defects. the stair angles help to induce the bias twist, it is important to get the twist and bring everyting tight and like I said before trust the geometry, its easy to try to go at it halfway, but one small missalignment will progressively get worse down the line. the stair angles keep the stringers in perpendicular tension via the treads, and the tread shape and stringer layouts give it the "dna twist" with each stringer fastened at both ends and held in perpendicular tension to each other, once fully assembled becomes monolithic in nature and there is zero springback
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