Thats the thing about foreclosed houses, mold. You will definitly have to take out the drywall, floors,and ceiliengs with this kind of damage. My word of advice, don't bother, mold spreads like wilfire, and it's pretty much impossible to cure. So I think you should find another house, just because I've worked with mold, and I hate it, most of the HO's move because of it.

If you really like the house, I would do it, but Usually, youre still gonna have problems in the future.

Acch! I just ate, and am holding it back! i hate mold!

BTW if youre afraid to touch the house, it's not worth it!

I bought mold remediation supplies to kill some mold. First thing to do in any mold gig is to find the water source and stop it.
I don't remember the product. But it was a 3 part step. Had to spray remove and seal. The sealant is expensive 100 dollars for 5 gallons.

Don't remember the name of the product. Google for it. One thing I remember is the stuff certified by the EPA and is safe for the enviroment. Except for mold. :lol:

If you do go for it dont start ripping into it withe the mold. You need to kill the mold or teh spores will just go airborn and you will have mold growing anywhere its damp. 10% bleach/water mix will kill it. if you mix more bleach the mold knows its going to die and release spores.

Ive taken a paint sprayer and sprayed the antimold paint in buildings where I thought mold may happen just to stop it if it ever does.

Well my own house flooded a while back and have been dealing with the mold problem. Bleach will kill most molds the one I found it doesn't is the brown molds with the little hairs for that you need hydrogen peroxide. Put it in a sparay bottle and sparay away. There will be more spores in the wood no matter what so you have to either paint/seal it with an antifungal paint or sealer. The other option that I have been haveing even better results with is soda plasting the wood.

Poly is your friend. Also bleach isn't a fungicide. Bleach may only kill up to 90% of mold. The other 10% or so just turns white. Making you think it has been eradicated. :thumbsup:

I had a certified pro help me with my problem. If he wasn't my brother he would of charged me a arm and a leg. :laughing:

Michaeljp86 said:

If you do go for it dont start ripping into it withe the mold. You need to kill the mold or teh spores will just go airborn and you will have mold growing anywhere its damp. 10% bleach/water mix will kill it. if you mix more bleach the mold knows its going to die and release spores.

Ive taken a paint sprayer and sprayed the antimold paint in buildings where I thought mold may happen just to stop it if it ever does.

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white vinegar works as well.

mold is bad....you may want to check with your insurance co. to make sure you can get a policy on your house. Most insurers are trying to get out of covering mold issues and won't give new policies on molded homes. So look into it before you buy.

Ive thought about going out to the barn and getting a bag of dithane and spraying that on mold. Its a fungiside that we spray on the grapes. You only need like 3 cups for 100gal of water.

I think mold needs a low ph, seems like any type of acid would kill it.

Mold problems

What state do you live in? My brother has a mold remediation company in Knoxville, TN. I could ask him who he would recommend for your area.

thanks a lot guys, I've decided to walk away from that house, mainly because the house has been sitting with mold for awhile, and that thing is likely to have spread around the house.

CHLORINE BLEACH IS INEFFECTIVE IN KILLING MOLD FOR THESE REASONS:

http://www.moldacrossamerica.org/notobleach.htm


WHY BORATES ARE BETTER THAN BLEACH

There was a tax sale on houses in my area and there was a real nice trilevel that the paper said had black mold. It was a $150,000+ house and sold for $30,000. I didnt go inside but since the state knew about the mold it would probably be a huge pain in the butt. If you owned a mold remediation company you could have turned a nice profit on that one.

Kostyan said:

thanks a lot guys, I've decided to walk away from that house, mainly because the house has been sitting with mold for awhile, and that thing is likely to have spread around the house.

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There is more than one "Black Mold"........One WILL kill you over time, one is edible!

Michaeljp86 said:

There was a tax sale on houses in my area and there was a real nice trilevel that the paper said had black mold. It was a $150,000+ house and sold for $30,000. I didnt go inside but since the state knew about the mold it would probably be a huge pain in the butt. If you owned a mold remediation company you could have turned a nice profit on that one.

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Theres something called "mold control" you can get it at home depot. I think it's an enzyme that kills or eats it I think. Check some threads at drywalltalk.com it's mentioned there.

The paper about the house said black mold, I dont know if you could eat it or not.

MALCO.New.York said:

There is more than one "Black Mold"........One WILL kill you over time, one is edible!

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Mold Removal

Just my 2 cents about mold removal.......I'm a certified Mold Remediator and have done many mold jobs. The first thing you want to do is have a Mold Inspector test for the type of mold you have. The report will outline the proper steps for removal. some mold is harmless and some are toxic. better safe than sorry.

Okay, unless all of you have a ton of money to spend, listen up:

Bleach, vinegar, Home Depot products do not kill mold. They only clean the surface superficially.

I am not going to get into a long discussion, but a few words of caution, unless you ask:

1) Glad you walked away from the house. Too much time had passed to effectively identify where it had spread.

2) When mold became a big issue around 2001, when Farmers lost a big lawsuit in Texas, "everyone and their mother" became a mold expert overnight.

Testing labs would solicit contractors and show them how to take samples. By using these labs, the contractor would get a discount or other stuff for using them.

3) For mold to start growing, you need stagnant water or high moisture content; a food source: framing or paper on drywall; and high temperature and high humidity.

This house was a accident waiting to happen. Too long for mold to see and grow and spread.

4) When working with customers, before any remediation, advice the customer that a hygienist should be called.....I said hygienist or IEP. Now the liability is theirs. The initial testing is about $500 and up; about the same for final clearance; and, yes, you want them to write a protocol to tell you where and how to remove the mold.

Containment and PPE and negative air machines are important to keep the spores from spreading and for the health of workers and customers.

5) The source of loss needs to be determined first, and,then stop the source.

6) After #4-5, dehumidifiers may also be required, but never air blowers. You want to contain the infected area. I have seen spores floating and become dormant. At a future date, they will begin to grow again under the right conditions.

7) Dont' open yourself to a lawsuit.

8) Attorneys love contractors who don't know the proper procedures.

9) Also, check with the customer to see if their insurance covers mold inspections and reports.

10) If they dont', and the customer doesn't want to pay, maybe you should walk away or get a release of liability.

Yet, in the long run, you may lose. Mold remediation is not for everyone.

11) General liability will not cover you or defend you in a lawsuit. You must have Pollution Liability Insurnace.

Okay, that's it for now.

Mark