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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
We recently completed a Modular Arts Block wall in a software company reception area. I have worked with other Modular Arts products before but never these wall blocks. I think it came out pretty nice. The Wall is supported in part by an internal steel frame using 1-5/8" steel studs and track, which all recess and are hidden by the blocks and the trim. The finishing was the hardest part of this project-A lot of time was spent on filling seams and sanding!
Modular Arts is a really great company with lots of interesting products.
http://www.modulararts.com/
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ha- I needed yoga after the hours of filling and sanding- but no tea...just lots of BEER!
I tried to think of this as an art project that I was commissioned to do rather than a regular job and I still actually made a really nice profit on the job. By the way the blocks are 24" wide by 32" tall- The wall wound up being 10' wide and with trim and base 6'5" tall.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What do you use for filler? Special stuff from the company?
yes- they supply a secret milky additive that is mixed with powdered drywall compound (also supplied). The additive keeps the filler from developing cracks or "fishers" on the seams. The challenge with the filler is that there is only a 20 minute window to use it before it turns into a brick, so you need to mix small batches and clean off all tools in between mixes.
 

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The Dude
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yes- they supply a secret milky additive that is mixed with powdered drywall compound (also supplied). The additive keeps the filler from developing cracks or "fishers" on the seams. The challenge with the filler is that there is only a 20 minute window to use it before it turns into a brick, so you need to mix small batches and clean off all tools in between mixes.
"fissure" - kind of like nuclear fission :)

How much you wanna bet it's just latex admix and hot mud? Not that I'd ever try using something other than their special sauce goo
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
"fissure" - kind of like nuclear fission :)

How much you wanna bet it's just latex admix and hot mud? Not that I'd ever try using something other than their special sauce goo
Yes "Fissure"..- I agree- I would never take the chance of using anything other than the materials that they supply in the "Installation Kit". Just not worth taking a chance and have cracks appear after it's all done and painted (5 coats of paint by the way)
 

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The Dude
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Yes "Fissure"..- I agree- I would never take the chance of using anything other than the materials that they supply in the "Installation Kit". Just not worth taking a chance and have cracks appear after it's all done and painted (5 coats of paint by the way)
Oh, I agree wholeheartedly!!! Not at ALL worth the chance.

FIVE COATS???? I hope you're putting it on thin and even! I'd assume 3 would do the trick, but 5? Is there a special sauce paint system too?

I know guys that will try to one-hitter-quitter something like that :laughing::laughing::laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Oh, I agree wholeheartedly!!! Not at ALL worth the chance.

FIVE COATS???? I hope you're putting it on thin and even! I'd assume 3 would do the trick, but 5? Is there a special sauce paint system too?

I know guys that will try to one-hitter-quitter something like that :laughing::laughing::laughing:
Modular Arts details the painting process as -
All seams must be sealed with one coat of primer/sealer prior to sealing entire wall surface. After seams are sealed, a MINIMUM of two coats of the primer/sealer must be applied to entire wall prior to the application of paint.

So three coats of the Low-VOC primer that they supply and then another 2 coats of the regular (flat is recommended) paint is applied. 5 coats total on this job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks awesome!!! Are the blocks able to be cut?
Yes you can cut them! - here are the Modular Arts instructions:

IF BLOCKS NEED TO BE CUT: The blocks are best cut using a table saw. We recommend using a 10” dry cut masonry blade, or very sharp 10” carbide table saw blade. Because of the overall depth of the blocks, it is best to cut halfway through the block on one side, then carefully flipping the block over to finish the cut. To protect the face of the block, as it is being pushed through the table saw, we suggest laying the block on a thin piece of styrene or rigid foam.
 
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