Being that we know first hand what it's like to not have a car stripped correctly or being the ones to correct the mistakes, we take quality service and customer service very seriously! Customer is our #1 priority and we complete every job with the thought of making it easier on them in the long run. Most of our advertising is by word of mouth and that doesn't work at all if they're not happy! Also you are aware that the Geo can do dry when moisture is a concern.... Just cut the water off..I was specifically picking cars as the scope of work that in my opinion wet/dustless blasting is a poor idea. The most generic car we can pick as an example: 1965 mustang. Cutting rockers off and quarters isn't an option because it's a dry clean example...the car is stripped to its rawest form. You only have a wet/dustless blaster. What do you do??? Oh I'll throw another snag in the mix...customer doesn't have a rotiseerrie and wants it shot on a roll around body dolly and YOU are NOT doing the body work...it is just at your location to get stripped. How do you get the abrasive that you stripped the car with out of the areas that it finds its way Into? Maybe strip it and ship it? Well I strip cars like its my job to do the next step and help my clients successfully get there.
Some people will never think the details all the way through even when they have run a media blasting business for ten or more years...some people just do not care. I am on the other hand not that guy. My reputation and my abilities to help someone be successful matter. I think my growing customer base is proof of that.
I specifically also have in the past said I will eventually own a machine of some sort but it will not be a dustless/green. Probably what ever pops up for sale at the right time of the job that it's needed for.
I always tell the person I am working for that we can surely blast wet or dry and then follow through with all of the idiosyncrasies of each. We stripped an entire building wet recently and it went smooth and exactly how you would expect. The cleanup aspect was handled by us and doing it dry was not an option. BUT...I shot it with soda and the wet was more attractive to me and the downtown that we did it in.
We all need to market our business's any way we see fit to grow and continue to support our families. I am glad some of us on here get it...and the ones that don't well, we will continue to try and help.
I guess I was was stuck on the fact that you had in the past said you own a automotive repair shop and missed countless opportunities and that is the scope of work I was discussing. Lots to be interpreted usually on the interwebs but I am pretty good at staying in one rut. Yes, I know you can turn off the water on a geo/Eco machine. In my opinion cars and water do not mix so therefore I was...awe heck with it...buy the bigger unit and when it's not working out for cars send me a pm...I'll buy it for .30 on the dollar.Being that we know first hand what it's like to not have a car stripped correctly or being the ones to correct the mistakes, we take quality service and customer service very seriously! Customer is our #1 priority and we complete every job with the thought of making it easier on them in the long run. Most of our advertising is by word of mouth and that doesn't work at all if they're not happy! Also you are aware that the Geo can do dry when moisture is a concern.... Just cut the water off..
For me, it varies depending on what I'm blasting. Heavy steel pipe like I just finished, I opened the dose valve about 1/8 of a turn and used around 10-12 gallons per hour. On wood, I'll open the dose valve around 1/2-3/4 turn and use 20-30 gallons per hour. If I'm doing a lot of washing down and rinsing, I can blow thru 80 gal. in 1 1/2-2 hours. It all depends on what YOU WANT. With the Geo, it's all up to you. :thumbup:how much water are u using per minute in your geo/farrow blasters?
It depends, but if I'm blasting for say 7 hours straight it's around 100 gallons.how much water are u using per minute in your geo/farrow blasters?
Bob, same here!... When blasting cars I use to do them wet, but wet glass/media and paint MUD stuck in all the corners and seams is not a clean way to blast a car that's going to get primered and painted afterwords, and the clean-up takes way to long to make it worth to blast wet.I shoot both dry and wet, Farrow and Surfacetek are my pots. I don't do cars but I wouldn't do them wet if I did for the reasons cited (wet sand stuck in corners and the flash rust factor).
I mainly strip bottom paint from boats and you can't really beat a good wet system for that. Mainly to satisfy the yard manager who doesn't want old bottom paint blowing around onto other client boats but a wet system cuts the thick and sometimes gooey bottom paints much faster and cleaner than dry. Hey, its my main client base and wet makes it happen for me. And the Farrow makes it easy to get the right mix of air/media and water so I use a minimum of grit and the ground ends up barely wet under the boat.
Hey Chuck,Why HoldTight? Why 100-200$ for a one car? You dilute it 1:50 or 1:100.
To be honest, when you gonna use proper glass size, then you not even scratch zinc on a steel. So HoldTight is useless.
Moreover, comparing to what you said of water use, in DB/SB I use 0.15-0.3 gallon per minute. So in worse case scenario it's not more than +20% you're using in your geo/farrow blasters. Water inside pot or connected to WIN nozzle or Wet Head Adapter. Last option, the best one.
I can tell that Geo/Farrow is much better if you want to blast graffiti or brick and leave surface smooth. In those conditions DB/SB is losing, why? Because of WIMA pump and water compression in Geo/Farrow it's easier to regulate low blasting pressure, starting as you said 0.1 bar which is impossible at MMLJ blasters because of air low efficiency for settings.
That's just my opinion. Of course, I would like to have one genuine wet blaster at my warehouse.