I say do whatever the manufacture recommends, others disagree.What is your prefered location to put screws in the rib or fla
Is their a better alternative to 30pd felt as underlayment?
And most imrtantly why dont somebody come up with a better way to tuck a
Ridge cap where two roofs meet
If we're talking light gauge ribbed steel, which is my only experience, water attaches itself to the screws and epdm washers and stays there until it dries, whether it's on the ribs or in the flats. We must rely on the epdm seal either way, so I follow the directions and fasten in the flats next to the big ribs.Common sense will tell you, water runs in the low areas, hence, we screw the ribs. As I have pointed out before, and some strongly disagree, the manufacturers do not actually test anything....
Ok so I read all these posts. I have been a metal roofer for 20 years I have installed almost every style of metal panel out there. The answer isn't as simple as everyone here states. We need more information. Is it raised rib, 5V or ......? Most agricultural panels require screws in the flat but their are a few that require it in the rib. As for depending on the washer a light touch on the trigger is very important. I never use tar paper anymore on either metal or shingles. It just doesn't make sense to use a product that will dry out over time. I prefer Titanium UDL for all my roofing projects. It carries it's own warranty when installed properly and you can leave it exposed for extended periods of time without worry. I also recommend plastic cap nails no matter what underlayment you use. Not all synthetics are created equal. For instance Rhino says right on it for use under shingles only.
Pole barns and houses need to be installed differently due to the different types of movement in each structure.
You can make metal roofer a shinglers but you can never make a shinglers a metal roofer.
From what I have seen here , if hail ruins steel roofs then the shingled ones are gone too.We don't install pole barn steel on houses. It is for pole barns. Screws go on the flat. Screws on the rib can dent the steel if the are too tight, making small areas for water to pond on every screw. Not a real good reason, but in time you could have a leak, rust, etc..
We have been replacing steel on pole barns lately because of hail. Not a great alternative to shingles, IMO.
Sometimes ya. Shingles are a little cheaper though and work in transitions much better.From what I have seen here , if hail ruins steel roofs then the shingled ones are gone too.
I have never had any issues with the caps showing through. It creates a slight air space between the metal and the roof deck. This allows any condensation dissipate.In using plastic cap nails do you have any problem with the caps showing through the metal?
I have seen some of the metal roofs shinglers have put on.