Here they are hanging.
Some of 'em are pretty ugly.It looks like the doors were painted. I like your trick to place a solid edge on the doors but why? If it gets paint anyway, wouldn't the finger joint stile be covered by paint?
Both jambs leaned back about 3/16" in the same direction, the width was a heavy 1/8" wider at the top and the head jamb was slightly out of level. I cheated the margins with the hinges and planed the tops to match the opening. By the time I got the all hardware set and cleaned up, I had 7 hours into the install. Mortising the hinges on the jambs was the killer, all hand work. The doors have dummy handles and ball catches, as well as a slide bolt in the stationary panel. I also had 5 hours into the shopwork.Btw LF, how was the cased opening for putting doors into? I did one like that a few years ago. The framing was cross-legged a bit and one of the jambs was out of plumb. Pulled the casing back and shimmed the jamb, but the cross-leg left one door a little proud of the other at the bottom.
It looks like the doors were painted. I like your trick to place a solid edge on the doors but why? If it gets paint anyway, wouldn't the finger joint stile be covered by paint?
The latter is the case, some areas were completely unacceptable even with paint. I figured it was the right thing to do.Some of 'em are pretty ugly.
Pretty cool.The latter is the case, some areas were completely unacceptable even with paint. I figured it was the right thing to do.![]()
I considered an edge-banding approach, but I had the poplar in the shop and you know I love to use the Azek scraps.:w00t:Pretty cool.
I've just glued a thin rip
on the strike side.
When the hinge side couldn't
be avoided I made a "V"
notch and filler.
This is cuter. :thumbsup:
Why do they DO that?!?!The opening was an existing cased opening with a 46 5/8" width.