BTW this battery is not working, will not charge, yet charger registers as "fully charged"
Thanks,
Rob
ASC Building Solutions
Thanks,
Rob
ASC Building Solutions
Not sure I understand what you mean by a code key.betrbilt99 said:I found a recent post from another user, and could not find the thread after joining Contractor talk. ANYWAYS- I have a M18 XC which if I hold down the fuel meter button, a series of flashes emits from the LEDs. Although the flashing lights would look great for a contractor's Christmas party this year, I would like to find out if anyone knows anything about the location of a code key for such a conundrum? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rob ASC Building Solutions:blink:
Same here.CO762 said:I've had mine for about 3 years and not had any problems.
You don't need to weld them; soldering will work just fine. For better durability, use wire instead of the flat tabs.every battery pack I have dissected had the cells spot welded together. I have not figured out how to get around the need to spot weld them back.
I could not get solder to stick to the cells. Crome plate??You don't need to weld them; soldering will work just fine. For better durability, use wire instead of the flat tabs.
You do need to get the soldering done relatively quickly, so you don't overheat the cell. :thumbsup:
Jim I've soldered many subc cells, sand them first and hit them really hot and really fast. I've even soldered them in a series stick configuration without tabs or pigtails, just flowing solder between the cells.I could not get solder to stick to the cells. Crome plate??
I finally had a tool go dead on me with the m18--but thanks to the charge LEDs, I figured it'd be out before I finished what I was doing, so I brought another battery with me."the flashes are of no significance"
Where did you find out about this?Golden view said:Probably because they are getting phased out. Both those batteries (replaced with 2 amp hour) and the drill.