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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thanks for the replies guys, I guess I had some misconceptions in regards to these two. But hey, that's why I'm here, learning. I'll keep this in mind for the future.
 

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Focusing on solutions.
Hardwood floors/custom cabinets
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Resided my house with smartside about 5 years ago. Painted ourselves. Holding up well. Found a piece of scrap laying outside my shop this summer that had been laying on the ground for 5 years. Still as solid as it was when I put it there.

No way it takes 4 times the labor as vinyl.
 

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It is 4 times less labor than vinyl if anything.

No j-channel, no caps, no insane trim details. Easy, peasy.

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I'll install whatever people pay me to install,
but I wouldn't put it on my own house.
I like Cemplank and recommend it to anybody who asks.
 

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Hardi is easier to sell to the folks who got burned by Masonite.
The big companies around here sell Hardi based on it being hard to burn. (Fireproof they say)

Colorplus Hardi with matching caulk is Easy to sell to empty nesters.

Hardi is hard to patch.

The biggest problems I see with both are poor installation.
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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No body around here caulks butt joints any more. Joint covers or flashing behind.

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Love me some Concrete
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Love LP, prime all cut ends and make small (6”x8”) squares out of quality house wrap to flash behind joints. The squares over lap the siding piece under it and just short of the siding piece going up. We used to use metal flashing but LP rep said that house wrap pieces work just as well. Then quad caulk all joints making sure there is no caulk adhering to house wrap. The key to the caulk is that it only sticks to 2 sides of the joint. If you fill the joint completely (making it stick to the house wrap), the caulk does not expand and contract as it should. The small squares not only divert and water over the siding of if somehow got behind it , it also makes sure the caulk doesn’t adhere to the stapled on house wrap.

I have done several houses with LP and really like the product. I was surprised to find out that I am the only company that primes all cut ends in my area. The electrician, HVAC guy and supply yard had never seen any other contractor do it. Each had mentioned it to me when they were also working on the project. LP instructions and reps will tell you that it must be primed for the warranty to be valid after install. Just fyi
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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They make a flashing called Bear Skin that is a peel and stick, top edge only, easy to use and deal with.
 

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Sorry for the late reply. Been really busy.

I would figure 4x the labor compared to vinyl.

You need to think about me living in the world of vinyl siding. Every customer compares everything to vinyl. They also compare it to the cheapest vinyl they can find. Way of the world.

I stand by my 4x the labor cost to install vinyl. Maybe it's because we are so used to vinyl. Maybe its because I was extremely careful to follow all guidelines when installing prefinished smartside.

On a positive note, my current job will be all cedar siding. May not be a big deal to anyone else, but I'm so glad to get away from vinyl siding for a change.
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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In 20 plus years of siding have only done 4 vinyl jobs. Mainly do steel lap siding. Wind will suck it right off a house here.
 

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Honestly, it gets sucked off here also. Nailing to spec doesn't matter. We've had really good luck, but alot of houses get stripped. If you read the fine print, 16" nailing O.C. is standard and to spec. But in the fine print, they say something about "high wind areas" According to a sales rep, they will fall back on the high wind area, if all else fails.

I'm just happy when I get to do something other than vinyl.
 

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Make sure you still prime the cuts and flash the seams with cedar. I don't really see the appeal to cedar with the alternatives available but some people just want wood. In MA I am seeing houses needing a new paint job every 5 -7 years. We also see a ton of FJP used as exterior trim which drives me nuts.

I can't believe cedar shakes are $800 a sq to buy at this point. Be nice if wages went up with the price of stock.
 

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Tin on barns lasts for decades.

What do bear skins look like after decades?

  • true, it’s probably moot, since only a sliver of bear skin is exposed to the elements behind Hardie board.
  • behind LP and caulk, it probably will never see the light of day.

Just my preference. If $26 difference between the products breaks the bank, I wouldn’t be in business long, anyway.


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