I have a feeling your going to have to hold up each one to the stud bay and mark it, toss to the chop saw guy.
Insert and screw with 2 or 3 - 3.5" trim screws on each end. Could clamp a jig below the insert to allow neat adhesive on each end and screw it up.

Oh yea, like said above this item 2x the wall itself in place cost for starters.

 

Its a render

 

Here's a new thought I had after looking at the 3D renders taken inside. Finish nails and Locktite PL.

Those blocks are there as nail backing. All that may be needed is something to hold them in place until those ringshank SS nails go into them from outside, and then they ain't going nowhere. The backing might go quickly if an inch long bead of moisture-cure polyurethane construction adhesive were gunned into the angle of stud and zipwall sheathing right where the block goes, one glop each end, then insert the block and pin in place with a couple of angle-driven 18 gage 2" finish nails. Once the glue sets them blocks are rock solid and ready to be pierced and further fixed in place by the siding ringshanks.

 

I wouldn’t use adhesive- the block will want to slide, and for the block to have value as a nailer it should be independently, strongly fastened. If they want to throw the money at this detail, pocket holes will probably be your best bet.

 

Many many a time. But never with a kreg

 

Why not?

 

Back edge nailed many a time too. And every thing in between. Of course.
looks fun. And is that a familiar tall window from another thread?

 

Think about it this way. The block gets penetrated by the nail through the siding and sheathing. With that siding ringshank set, the block's going nowhere.

 

End nail stitch it like you showed in the picture. Use a gun and tens

 

You could also do blocking like this.
Just get back to us in couple of years when your done.

 

We did a similar structure two years ago with vertical thermally modified siding on the exterior. No exterior girts. We used 7/16" Coravent for the rainscreen. We had figured two guys for three days for the between stud blocking and we came out very well on it and the structure was 28' x 52'.

 

I have my doubts that your story is real, but being told that an actual architect wants that built for themselves makes me prejudge them as someone I would view unfavorably as a person and steward of resources.

At first I thought maybe this was going to be a pretend barn, to skirt the tax assessor, but the interior blocking works against energy consciousness. I like to read about elegant yet functional structures, practical structures, cutting edge engineering, super-energy efficient structures, and novel building materials for sustainability. I just don't see a purpose for building such a thing if it won't be conditioned. What I'm trying to say is that this building makes me angry, which I guess, is something it does that's unique.

 

You know the slots routed into the back of some wooden certificate holders that catch the head of a screw inserted into a wall and hang on the wood plaque onto the screw on the wall?...

First, make a simple marking template that you hold against each side of a stud and draw a pencil or pen line of about three inches in width onto the zip wall. These lines close to each stud will be where you will insert each screw to a preset depth into the zip (using a depth gauge on your drill). There will be a screw left and right in a stud bay, and for how every many rows of blocking you need. Now, for the 2x4's, you'll use custom milled lumber that is very straight, and highly consistent in thickness and width. You'll set up a router jig and bit where you can safely plunge each end of a block into the router bit and cut that slot, kinda like a french cleat cut into each back end and centered top to bottom. The 2x4 blocks will all be batched cut just a little long and then batch routed. All the screws will be put in the wall as a batch job using two or three guys on a rolling scaffold so they don't have to climb. Blocks will be cut to final width and hang from each of the two screws. A chalk line on the exterior will mark your nail locations and you'll go to town on the permanent fastening.

edit: I meant to note that the screws chosen will probably need a sharp 90 on the back of the head where it meets the screw shaft (kind like the head on a Spax structural screw verses a drywall screw) so they all index exactly the same even if one screw is driven just slightly deeper than another.

 

Thicker sheathing, or double layer, and eliminate the blocking?

 

^^Though it seems the blocking is partly an aesthetic detail for the interior?
Is this conditioned space? Not that it's any of my beeswax, just curious what the overall goal is. Antique tractor storage for gentleman farmer?

 

Gang notch the studs silly boy....
Just widen wall 1.5"..... stronger and higher R value with FAR LESS
labor.

Where is the wind bracing?
Just the siding....= cheesy
Huge window opening fails wind and sesmic...



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