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KemoSabe
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Does that router brand start with an R?

How did it hold up?
Yes. It's the R brand. It also belongs to the HO, who modified the base to slot every 5th board of the soffit for ventilation. It completed that task with no problems and has done some other miscellaneous jobs as well. I have to say, good buy for a second router.
 

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If you looking for reasonably prices routers, try the refurb hitachi. I have a project this summer where having a few routers was going to save alot of changeover time, so I picked up a 2 M12VC's and an M12V2.

http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Routers___c362.aspx


The compare very well to my existing Makita, Bosch, and Dewalt routers. I might even have more routers than norm does now.

PC690
Makita 3601B D Handle
Bosch 1.75 HP D Handle
Makita 3HP single speed plunge
Dewalt 3HP Variable SPeed Plunge
and the hitachi's
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
Lone would you recomend gluing the 1/2 laps or let them take up any movement?
I'd let them float. I know the gap is unsightly, but if you've ever seen a joint fail, they are downright ugly. Very jagged edges, opposed to a clean even margin. Of coarse, I'd have to break the run up into even lengths to make it look symetrical.:thumbsup:
 
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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
If you looking for reasonably prices routers, try the refurb hitachi. I have a project this summer where having a few routers was going to save alot of changeover time, so I picked up a 2 M12VC's and an M12V2.

http://www.reconditionedsales.com/Routers___c362.aspx


The compare very well to my existing Makita, Bosch, and Dewalt routers. I might even have more routers than norm does now.

PC690
Makita 3601B D Handle
Bosch 1.75 HP D Handle
Makita 3HP single speed plunge
Dewalt 3HP Variable SPeed Plunge
and the hitachi's
Great site, thanks. I was just trying to figure out where to look for a couple of new routers. I have a couple of porter cables in my shop, but hate to take them out to the site to get dropped in the mud etc. I have had good experiences with Hitachi, and the prices are always good.
 

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Project Superintendent
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2,525 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Yep, I remebered.

Hey, I was just wondering about a tongue and grove joint. It might be easier than the half lap to make. You wouldn't necessarily need a jig.
I am trying the tongue and groove joint, and no, a jig is not necessary as long as you are careful not to round over the corners.(thanks Paulie) I have made a mock up for the architect to ogle tommorrow when he is on site, hopefully to finalize color selections for the fiberglass soffits and edge metal/ gutters. I am going to tell him that this is how we are going to handle the 1/8 expansion, he just needs to tell me whether he wants it caulked or not. I am going to suggest not, on the advice of Loneframer. :notworthy

I bought one new router, went with a Porter Cable refurbished, and liberated the other one out of the shop. I didn't know they had changed their design so drastically. Tongue and groove set by Freud from the local Woodcraft Store, I'm sure I paid a premium for it there, but it was convenient.

This is my first real experience with Azek, so far I like it a lot, the stuff cuts like butter! I dialed in both routers, and gave my carpenter foreman a quick lesson, but it should be pretty much idiot proof. I got a pallet full of the stuff and as long as the tongue router stays on one end of the pallet and groove router on the other, a laborer could do it. :jester:

I have attached a couple of pictures. Comments?



 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Here is the building that is shortly going to be "Azeked". You can see the long straight runs on each wing, 120 to 140' each.

By that way if you look real close near the dumpster at the lower right that's me waving at the helicopter.

 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
I am trying the tongue and groove joint, and no, a jig is not necessary as long as you are careful not to round over the corners.(thanks Paulie) I have made a mock up for the architect to ogle tommorrow when he is on site, hopefully to finalize color selections for the fiberglass soffits and edge metal/ gutters. I am going to tell him that this is how we are going to handle the 1/8 expansion, he just needs to tell me whether he wants it caulked or not. I am going to suggest not, on the advice of Loneframer. :notworthy



Hey man, I appreciate your confidence in my opinion.:thumbsup: I may be stealing a page out of your book with the T&G on the next project.:whistling

The only advice I have is to make sure you machine all pieces in the face up position to eliminate issues with slight variations in material thickness. I'm looking forward to progress pics.:notworthy
 

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very cool,are you going to locate the joint at a rafter tail?

maybe nail the azek to blocking placed each side of the tail and let the joint float?
 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hey man, I appreciate your confidence in my opinion.:thumbsup: I may be stealing a page out of your book with the T&G on the next project.:whistling

The only advice I have is to make sure you machine all pieces in the face up position to eliminate issues with slight variations in material thickness. I'm looking forward to progress pics.:notworthy
I noticed that there was some difference in thickness while adjusting the router setup, we will mark the face when cutting the t and g.

Architect finally selected colors for the gutters, cornice and drip edge, so we can start running shingles next week.

Architect agrees that the joint should be left open, so that's settled as well.
 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
very cool,are you going to locate the joint at a rafter tail?

maybe nail the azek to blocking placed each side of the tail and let the joint float?
It's a continuous metal sub fascia. Original design called for the Azek to attach directly to the metal, but now due to a cornice and soffit vent issue there will be a pressure treated sub fascia applied between the metal and the Azek, so we can nail anywhere along the length. I think this will be a better application as long as the PT doesnt twist too much. Will probably back off 6" from the joint on each side. Outside corners will be mitered and glued.
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
How will the Azek be attached to the PT? We have been using 16 gauge SS fasteners for about 5 years now with no issues, but I recall hearing that they are not recommended.
 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
How will the Azek be attached to the PT? We have been using 16 gauge SS fasteners for about 5 years now with no issues, but I recall hearing that they are not recommended.
Stainless steel is what I was going to use. Azek recommends either stainless or hot dipped galv. Haven't heard about any issues with SS.
 

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KemoSabe
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Stainless steel is what I was going to use. Azek recommends either stainless or hot dipped galv. Haven't heard about any issues with SS.
I think the issues were with the 16 gauge T head gun nails.
 
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