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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody had any experience with long runs of Azek fascia? I have uninterrupted runs of up to 120'. The Azek web site says to leave 1/8" expansion for every 18' of trim, but doesnt really tell you how to do this. Does this mean I have to leave one expansion joint every 18', or can it be cumulative, such as 3/8 in 54'? And then what do you do with the gap, just caulk?
 

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KemoSabe
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14,233 Posts
Anybody had any experience with long runs of Azek fascia? I have uninterrupted runs of up to 120'. The Azek web site says to leave 1/8" expansion for every 18' of trim, but doesnt really tell you how to do this. Does this mean I have to leave one expansion joint every 18', or can it be cumulative, such as 3/8 in 54'? And then what do you do with the gap, just caulk?
I've dabbled in Azek over the last few years. There is definitely going to be issues over 120'. I recommend the gapping on every board. Up to this point, I've glued every connection without too many issues, but on long runs, there is going to be substantial movement, especially if it's getting painted any color darker than white. My next job is going to be done with slip joints wherever possible and floating half laps on fascias and rakes. Here's a few pics of the latest project. The long fascia is 90' long, facing South. It was installed in summer heat, now it's been through a full cycle of seasons and some of the joints have failed.
 

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Working
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I would gap on every peice or every other piece.

I had a square house I did in azek facia. Glued all the joints the south run opened up. The other 3 sides look perfect. They are 64' runs wich isn't that long but we have huge temp changes here in IA.

Cole
 

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KemoSabe
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I would gap on every peice or every other piece.

I had a square house I did in azek facia. Glued all the joints the south run opened up. The other 3 sides look perfect. They are 64' runs wich isn't that long but we have huge temp changes here in IA.

Cole
I think anything over two full lengths will move substantially, especially on the southern exposure. North side will be much more tolerant to temperature differences.:thumbsup:
 

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KemoSabe
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I like the half lap idea. It wouldn't take to long to route out a rabbit and you would have 2x glue surface and a insurance policy it the joint does separate.

Now about the jig....
Howsabout a beveled half lap?:laughing:
 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I've dabbled in Azek over the last few years. There is definitely going to be issues over 120'. I recommend the gapping on every board. Up to this point, I've glued every connection without too many issues, but on long runs, there is going to be substantial movement, especially if it's getting painted any color darker than white. My next job is going to be done with slip joints wherever possible and floating half laps on fascias and rakes. Here's a few pics of the latest project. The long fascia is 90' long, facing South. It was installed in summer heat, now it's been through a full cycle of seasons and some of the joints have failed.
Good looking project. I like the half lap idea. This is going to be installed in cold weather, so would you leave the gap open? If I caulked would it just compress and pucker the caulk when it heats up? This is getting screwed to 20 guage steel subfascia, and i'm sure it's gonna move too, probably differently than the Azek.
 

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KemoSabe
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Good looking project. I like the half lap idea. This is going to be installed in cold weather, so would you leave the gap open? If I caulked would it just compress and pucker the caulk when it heats up? This is getting screwed to 20 guage steel subfascia, and i'm sure it's gonna move too, probably differently than the Azek.
In cold weather, yes, leave the gap open. I'm guessing, but I think you're right about the caulk compressing in the heat. I don't use caulk on Azek because it collects airborne dirt and becomes an eyesore down the road. The steel fascia is another factor that will change the amount of visible movement. I'd suspect the steel will move more than a wood sub-fascia, so the overall movement won't change, but the noticable effect may not be as drastic.
 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep, I remebered.

Hey, I was just wondering about a tongue and grove joint. It might be easier than the half lap to make. You wouldn't necessarily need a jig.
Tongue and groove would be good. Could easily and quickly be done with two routers. Hmmm.
 

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KemoSabe
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Yep, I remebered.

Hey, I was just wondering about a tongue and grove joint. It might be easier than the half lap to make. You wouldn't necessarily need a jig.
That could work. I have a T&G cutter for the 3 horse router. A plunge base with the stops set properly would make quick work of the joints.:thumbsup: Tearout/chipping could be controlled with some sacrificial scraps.
 

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KemoSabe
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Tongue and groove would be good. Could easily and quickly be done with two routers. Hmmm.
Two routers is even better, I gotta start thinking like Norm.:laughing:
 

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Project Superintendent
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Two routers is even better, I gotta start thinking like Norm.:laughing:
Yea, like everybody tripping over each other to give you power tools to try out. :laughing: The other thing that Norm is thinking about is retiring, you know he's not going to do any more New Yankee Workshop. If I had his money I'd be thinking that too!
 

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KemoSabe
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Yea, like everybody tripping over each other to give you power tools to try out. :laughing: The other thing that Norm is thinking about is retiring, you know he's not going to do any more New Yankee Workshop. If I had his money I'd be thinking that too!
I think Basswood needs to talk to the folks over there about his own show.:thumbsup:
 
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