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Glen
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Doesn't this kind of thing depend on everything? Like if you have to erect scafold and clean up. And any masking maybe of painted trim around windows? If there is easy access to the whole home or very tight with trees and shrubs to get equipment around Sounds like a lot of variables including the over all s.f. to just throw out a per foot price with out much info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Doesn't this kind of thing depend on everything? Like if you have to erect scafold and clean up. And any masking maybe of painted trim around windows? If there is easy access to the whole home or very tight with trees and shrubs to get equipment around Sounds like a lot of variables including the over all s.f. to just throw out a per foot price with out much info.
True, I'll bid high, im about to sell the equipment soon and he wont be ready till march
 

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Just started this year in restoring Log Homes. I bought
a Blaster about the first of Aug because i had a home that
i was having difficulty removing the stain . Have done a
total of 4 homes this year with no advertising outside
of contacts with Log Home salesmen.
My going rate has been $ 2.00 a sq ft . I adjust the price
depending on the terrain and wether or not i need
the use of scaffolding.
Currnetly thinking of switching to Walnut for next year.
I do live in the midwest or Central Mo and have heard of
State Farm paying as much as up to $ 5.00 sq ft on a certain
area north of KC Mo in a subdivision that was damaged from a
hailstorm. Because of the Lake in the subdivision they only allowed
media blasting but its only from a second party roofer working there.

Wood rot and caulking ,staining are extra.

Tim
 

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Yes I go by the Sq ft of the outside of the house.
I figure it just like i would be installing
siding on the house.
Depending on the soffit overhang width i may or may
not include it on my bid. But will hit it as well.

My first job i fugred i would use a $ 2:00 sq ft bid.
Took the $$ amount of the media,compressor rental,
labor for employees 1-2,my labor rate minus the total
and i made a really good profit.The first one i thought i would
not come out good as i knew there was going to be a loss
from a learning curve. Came out better than i thought.
Wish i had at least 2-3 a week .

Tim
 

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Kelly
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Sounds good we have log cabins up north of us in Northern az about 2 hour drive from here. Scaffolding sounds like a pain probably rent one of those lifts you can drive it around. I spoke to a guy in Colorado that was using glass on log homes he was also a large contractor in the are for log home building.
 

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Glen
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You know those lifts only work on pretty flat ground. They have them with all terain wheels but then the rental guy told me that would just get them over rough ground but it still should be mostly flat grade where you set it up. Maybe someone here knows more about them. I agree setting up scafold sounds tough. I use one section at my shop when I work on R.V. windshields and it's a chore to drag the two pieces and cross members around as it is.
 

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Only used scaffolding on a couple of homes,and only on
areas i needed. I had my workers set it up while i worked
other areas of the homes. Didnt have to rent them so
i saved that portion though i have included it in
my bid as well . I recycle the media that i can catch on
tarps that are laid out. Saves the clean up process and
keeps my workers busy while im blasting.
I am bidding on some apt complexes near Omaha that are
3 story and will need a lift there.
Some homes are not accessible with a lift may just use ladders.
Used a ladder on this last one and got by great without the
scaffolding or lift.
Bought my blaster from a guy in Colorado who needed to sell
it . He said competition cut him out up there

Tim
 

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Glen
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Kell I was thinking about that tent idea too. I don't think there is any very simple way to do it. It's hard to get paid for the time as it is without all of that set up too. I can imagine a few stands with magnetic bases for the deck lid roof and hood. Laying out a piece of 4 mil plastic. laying a 2x3 maybe at the end andstaple it to it. Lift the wood in to place up on the stilts. Kind of like tenting a boat. Might staple 2x3 to bottom too and drag back to have room to work. It would need a couple to get the length. And a piece for each end maybe cliped on with little squeez clips. I think Jim said he uses landscaping cloth at one end to let air out. Do you have other ideas or know of a real product that would work? This would suck to set up on a windy day.
 

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Glen
Measuring a gable end you take the bottom length divide by 2
X the height would give you the sq ft of the end. Or you
can Google ( measurement siding) and check links, it will give you the
formula..
Hope this helps

Tim
 

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My 2 cents

I have more tarps than needed . I have set up scaffolding sets
with walk boards between and hung tarps from the top on a 2 story
end . I also had a 2 story gable end that i used ladders and a walkboard
with a old ratty 50x50 tarp that wraped over the gable end tight and wired to the gutters to create a tent so i could catch the media.
Also to not let alot of media get in the 20 acre lake that was within 40 ft of the house. I go to a lumber yard and ask for the building wraps that they throw away.Some are about 8 - 12 ft wide and up to 20` long.
Those work great on decks and railings as well as on the ground
behind and under bushes.
I use my scaffolding braces to weigh down the tarps against the house
so im not chasing them around.

Kell
I was advised not to pursue glass as it inbeds in the wood and creates a glitter on the home thats why im thinking of trying walnut.

Tim
 

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Glen
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Tim, thanks for both posts. Very helpful.
I also was told about the glitter with glass. They advised blowing it off well if I used it. I tried walnut on a sample section and it worked very well. I heard somthing about cob can cause mold if it imbeds?
 

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Trial and Error Opperator
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Tim,
have you come accross a house with aluminum window's and trim.

I just priced on at 1.45 sqft. it was 4224 sqft.
I posted pic's on another post.

The guys choked on it. I didn't move on the price beacuse I know there's alot of work involved in it. it had metal trim and windows and all I could do is tape it up. I priced with Glass for the main body of the house, and soda around the windows.

I did not get to try a spot, but still think walnut would be the way to go.

I saw a web sit were the guy sands the the wood after because Blasting makes a fuzz on the wood?
 

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Glen
Mold from cob, could be but havent heard about it causing problems.
The first home i did i noticed that the media around the house that
never got cleaned up looked molded .That house had alot of moisture around it .Was by a 20+ acre quarry lake and next to the Missouri river .

Dyer

No havent come across aluminum windows yet or trim.
Havent had to tape any windows as the cob just bounces off glass.
Havent had it hurt the paint on window trims but it will strip paint off of gutters.
It will fuzz it up , It opens the pores of the wood . Havent had to use the osborn brush on homes yet.
I think that with striping it you will need to go back in 12 - 18 months
for the next coat of stain .

Tim
 

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Glen
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to measure the gable L x W and divide by 2 the length is only one side really all you are looking at is half a square




Blastzone thanks for the input, but I'm not sure I understand this method. There is legth or width I think rather than both being that it is one flat end of the building, and then hight. It's a triangle which I think is 1/4 of a square is it not? I do understand Tim's explanation a couple posts above. Is yours another way of ariving at the same sq feet?
 

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Project Manager
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Square footage of a triangle:

  • Consider the longest side of the triangle the base.​
  • Measure a perpendicular line from the opposite angle to the base to determine the triangle's height.​
  • Multiply the base by the height, and divide that number in half to determine the area.​
(base x height) /2 = area
height​
base​
 
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