Trusses are complex. Some have bearing points, some don't. The only one who knows is the manufacturer.

Around here, we would get called for nailing into the top plate. We're supposed to use truss clips.

The fact of it being nailed doesn't mean it's a load bearing wall or not. Maybe someone just did it wrong.

If some dude who calls himself "Seven-Delta-FortyOne" on an internet forum told you, "Oh, yeah, just chop that sumbich out", would you do it?? :blink:

Just have an Engineer look at it. Or contact the manufacturer, if they are still around.




Delta

 

If some dude who calls himself "Seven-Delta-FortyOne" on an internet forum told you, "Oh, yeah, just chop that sumbich out", would you do it?? :blink:

Delta

I would if he said: “I’ll bet my wife on it”.:jester:

 

Photograph the trusses, draw them to scale, take the pictures and elevation plan of the trusses to a reseller (lumberyard) and ask would a NEW truss like that be a "clear span" design, if yes you can remove the wall, use floating/slotted clips between the top plate and truss bottom cord to reduce drywall cracking.

The halfway splice is two pressed nail plates? Not a lapped 2x4s....

It is time to start learning how houses don't fall over. IMHO

Would you start poking around in an I.E.D in your driveway, or call a Pro?

 

I know trusses can be complex. I’m not gonna make a decision based solely on this conversation of course. It’s honestly hard to get an engineer to take a job this small in my area.
Yes dual plated splices not lapped.
I don’t think any used clips in the early 70s did they? I’ve seen guys just recently nail instead of clip but I’m in the southeast so...

 

Fourth gen I’m definitely not gonna do anything that would risk collapse . I generally understand construction but like most people I’m not an engineer.

I don’t see any noticeable stamps or manufacture markings...

 

If truss was build as a one piece truss, it shouldn't be center bearing. Having said that, I'd still just put a dbl 2x10 w/ply flitch header in & call it a day. It's not worth worrying about for the few $.

 

Rail man that was sort of my thought. If the engineer is gonna say put in a header why not just put in a header and keep the $350 plus.

 

should take an experienced about 3.2 seconds to figure out if it load bearing or not....

you going to add footings for that header?????

 

Medeek could answer this, but I don't see him around these days.

This can't be answered without load and pitch information. Just for your own interest, take a look at clear span w trusses that fit the pitch, span, and load.

Are there ones made of 2X4s that will clear span 30'? Yes.

I'd put in a header.

 

Just for good measure, Ijunped over to Medeek Design and used his online truss calculator. You might want to try googling Medeek truss calculator, and put the correct information in. The results I came up with used stud grade for web, and select structural for the top and bottom cords.

In any event, his calculator tells you exactly what information goes into the design.

 

If one of the truss webs doesn't come down on the wall then it's not load bearing. I've never seen a 30' truss that needed intermediate bearing, but I can't say that it has never happened.

 

Yeah 3 seconds and 350-500$. And footingsgor what? If that walls load bearing it’s already good and if it’s not.....

 

Thanks

 

The ones I’ve looked at do to some extent at least. I’ll dig through insulation more to see them all. Thanks

 

I re-read your first post. If it's a w-shaped truss, and the wall is "just off center" there is no way that the wall is bearing. Another clue is that all of the trusses are the same, but the walls are all over the place. I'd do it in a heart beat. Of course that's just me.

 

B. Johnson got it right.

If all the trusses are identical, they can't be load bearing with walls in three different spots...

Did you compare the picture of the trusses with a currently available, 30' clear span W truss?, without the energy "heel" for added insulation...

Installing an unneeded header, could actually CREATE drywall cracking.

 

Thanksguys^^ that was my thinking with the walls going all over.

 

Get a truss number and call manufacturer, they keep records of everything, they will tell you if the truss is designed to span 30'.

 

As a side note, I found it ironic that one of the guys was busting that balls of the new guy whose username is 'Be Kind'. :laughing:

Nothing wrong with ballbusting, it's a rite of passage...

 

Bekind is an old member.:laughing: