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Always Learning
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Discussion Starter #1
I don't do a bunch of masonry work. Here is a stone chimney I installed the counter flashing on. My mason left the mortar back for the flashing. I make little spring clips out of scrap aluminum to help hold the flashing in place until tuckpointing is complete. Works well especially if the mortar joint is bigger.
 

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For over a thousand years soft lead plugs were/are used to hold metal flashing in raked out joints that are later filled...

Where is the flashing parts that service the rain screen behind the stone that otherwise drain into the house attic/ exterior wall???

I can't tell if its faux stone or not, but the issue still exists..
 

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Always Learning
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
It is a full masonry, real stone, fireplace and chimney....all outdoors. It all drains...well everywhere. They do have mesh installed in the first course to let moisture wick between the block and stone.
 

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Covering the masonry firebox lengthens its lifetime by decades in frost country. :thumbsup:

But internal moisture = frost damage, especially any fire clay/brick.

A tin chimney cap with drip edge over the masonry cap reduces the water intake to just the leaky, or porous joints and stones.

Nice work.

I'll put that in the idea catalog for customers if you don't mind?

All that needs is a wet sink with frost drains and 2" drain plumbed to the basement for the bartender...:thumbsup:
 
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Looks tight, how'd ya get the 2"'s underneath the next piece of lead? (errr tin should I say)
 

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Always Learning
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Discussion Starter #8
Where the flashing overlaps the last piece, was wondering how you got mortar in it, it doesn't look to flexible
Oh, gotcha. I used my trowel and tuck point tool to force it back in there first then filled the rest of the joint. It is solid under the tin.
 
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