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Drywall Slave
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The l/w may have a place over metal stud work where the frame is nice and straight ,but hanging it over a wood frame can be a nightmare even if the frame is perfect..It's weak and flimsy .Putting it over a bad frame is not even possible. Like hanging a home with sheets of cardboard!


1/2 regular board is stronger than 1/2 l/w board It's as simple as that!
 

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Never had the problems with lw as described on this forum. We've used lafarge and usg mostly, no problems. No high shoulders, no screw pops, no voids, no loose paper. I wonder where some of you get your drywall from.
 

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If only a couple sheets, box store, for more drywall supplier. One supplier I deal with told me he thinks he's going to stop carrying it. He said some guys like it but there are so many complaints it's not worth it.
 

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Drywall Slave
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9,441 Posts
Never had the problems with lw as described on this forum. We've used lafarge and usg mostly, no problems. No high shoulders, no screw pops, no voids, no loose paper. I wonder where some of you get your drywall from.
Are you doing 150-250 board jobs?
 

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Are you doing 150-250 board jobs?
No way, more like 50 or less per job, I'm not a pro drywaller. I'm not calling anyone a liar, I'm just saying I haven't seen those problems myself.
 

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Home Repairs
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291 Posts
I have thrown up a few thousand sheets of light weight boards since they became widely available. The only negative thing I have to say about light weight is that it doesn't snap as clean as the regular weight type boards. I have to run my blade a little deeper when making snaps compared to the regular boards. I will go through a few more blades on a job when using this stuff. (too lazy to sharpen) I haven't seen an problems with them denting any more easily than regular boards when I bang my tools or equipment against it.

I prefer lite mud for routine bedding and skimming. It feathers out a lot faster when sanding than heavy compounds, and it doesn't break your back when moving the stuff around. I do use USG green top for taping.

I have not seen any screw pop problems that I could say were associated with any particular materials I use. They are normally caused by the hanger setting the bugle heads too deep and breaking the paper, or something going on with the framing that I attach the boards to.

A millions hanger/finishers.......... A million different opinions. You guys know how the story goes. :)
 

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Home Repairs
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291 Posts
Not national gypsum..It's soft . And ..The factory butts half to be trimmed . Taping over loose paper will cause spit line blisters.

Those boards were dragged or recieved some other type damage. A quick slice with your knife will clean that mess up.

Or.... after you hang boards like that, just take your utility knife and create a small "v" valley at the butt joints. It only take a few seconds.

I was on a job once with a commercial company, and one day this flatbed truck driver wasn't paying attention to what he was doing and backed the load of "rock" into a low steel girder. He damaged 2 full stacks of rock. The dumb ass foreman I was working with decided we would still use the rock because the job was falling behind and he didn't want to report the situation the our main office. We had 5-6 guys on the job and barely got 100 boards up that day. The owner came out later and fired the foreman on the spot after he stood there and watch us trimming off damage before hanging. Geeeees! That was my last commercial job ever.
 
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