Lipped Door with Euro Hinge

Blum 170's will work for most lipped/rabbetted door applications and I'm certain Salice makes a hinge specifically for this as well.

Find a local distributor for your best pricing. I use Oharco out of Omaha and HDL Distributors in Minnesota. Makes Rocker's crazy mark up look just silly.

There are several ways to do this with standard hinges. You just need to move your base plate back the appropriate amount.

One way is to build a pad for the base plate flush with the opening. Use a 3mil plate and play with the bore distance to get the proper overlay with a straight arm hinge.

Some experimentation will be necessary but if the box part is close enough but not flush with the frame, you might be able to just use a taller plate and forgo the pad.

Gus Dering said:

There are several ways to do this with standard hinges. You just need to move your base plate back the appropriate amount.

One way is to build a pad for the base plate flush with the opening. Use a 3mil plate and play with the bore distance to get the proper overlay with a straight arm hinge.

Some experimentation will be necessary but if the box part is close enough but not flush with the frame, you might be able to just use a taller plate and forgo the pad.

Click to expand...

I was hoping you would reply since you're the hinge master.
I was looking to avoid building up with a pad since the hinge I linked to has a cleaner look that I prefer, but it sounds like no one else makes a mounting plate of that style.
How do you recommend determining the bore location without effing up the doors? Is there an easy way or do you try it out with a couple scraps as doors?

aptpupil said:

I was hoping you would reply since you're the hinge master.
I was looking to avoid building up with a pad since the hinge I linked to has a cleaner look that I prefer, but it sounds like no one else makes a mounting plate of that style.
How do you recommend determining the bore location without effing up the doors? Is there an easy way or do you try it out with a couple scraps as doors?

Click to expand...

If it's the first time or something we seldom do, we always test with scrap.

Usually there are several situations inside the cabinet to deal with. If you have less than 9/16" reveal between the frame edge and the box part, you cannot use the standard faceframe plate like the one you showed. Then you are either packing the mounting surface out or using a taller plate.

To avoid that nasty price, I would find a better supplier. If that doesn't pan out I would play with the options available with standard hinges.

Hold the phone Jackson

I have been thinking about this wrong. The max bore distance on a standard hinge is 6mill. If your lip is larger than that, and I bet it is, you can't use a standard hinge.

You best stick with that hinge you found.

But if you get into a spot where you don't have room to use that plate shown, you'll still have to mount a standard plate in there somehow.

Sorry for the confusion

http://www.wwhardware.com/salice-110-w-9mm-cup-for-profile-doors-screw-on

http://www.thehardwarehut.com/collections/salice-b-special.php