All depends on what they are. I'm assuming overlay. Block of wood on the ground getting the drawer bank lower front aligned properly. 4 small pcs of double sided tape on the front of the drawer and then press the drawer in place. Secure it. Then another appropriate sized spacer for the next and then the next. Might want to make sure the spacers add up so the top of the bank is the same as the tops of the drawer fronts that go along the top of the cabinet. For the top of the cabinet fronts you use a spacer from the countertop and the double sided tape.

That's how I do it in the shop and it should work in the field.

 

Thanks. They were full overlay. Next time I'll do it with double-sided tape.

Pita side note: the screws that secured the fronts were amidst the dovetail joints. I had to pry them off with a 5-in-1 and a crowbar, then dremel off the screws. Fun. (Cabs were from N&it D@y C@binets)

 

I use a jig that attaches to the drawer box
Once front is placed correctly tighten the front clamps and it will not move

 

Is the jig a product or your own creation?

 

Could a couple of dabs of hot melt work?

 

I keep coming up with excuses to buy the hot glue gun that accepts makita batteries, but still haven’t pulled the trigger.

 

23 gauge pin nails and FastCap wax kit if necessary.

 

I made fixtures to set drawer fronts. These are based/sized for our inset with under mount slides. We also have them for overlay and euro.

With these a drawer face can be set in less than a minute.

The drawer face is pushed against the lower stop 2 edges, the box is placed against the upper stop 2 sides.

These are used in the shop, I‘ve had to mock some up in the field. A couple of measurements some scrap material and you’re good to go.

No clue why the drawer box and face don’t line up properly…….

Tom

 

How about predrilling drawer handle then face screwing the through those holes into the drawer box once aligned.

Then pull and secure.

 

Sometimes the drawer will push back into the cabinet and the hole will be off

No way am I shooting a pin through a painted drawer face, you will never hide that

Why would you glue a drawer face on???

 

This one
Cheap and it works very well

https://www.rockler.com/drawer-front-installation-clamps?country=US&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&sid=V91190&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17425394288&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0NPGBhCDARIsAGAzpp0lIoNdEWyDQtrqwzP13Fr-qLf9It2TWEKYjiJCSlLvAqOJnh8bC0oaAr_bEALw_wcB

 

Neat

 

I will take that as a “like” Leo

 

I have some of these. But they get in the way when you really want to dial in a mess of Euro drawer fronts at once.

That is why I gave up and just use the Grex pinner. Of course I used to scoff at that, a fastener in the face of fine cabinetry. But it works painlessly.

Drawer Front Clamps - FastCap

www.fastcap.com

 

Just had to fix one of the HD cabinets that the face fell off.

Used my pinner to hold it while the glue set and I could drill the pulls, which is the only thing that keeps them on.

Short pins. A couple decided to eat thier spinach and blew through the front.

Can't tell if the lights are out or unless you look really, really close. That's my story and Im stickin' to it.

 

There's a variety of ways to do it... the simplest way onsite, is clamps and spacers...

Then just cut spacers to align, clamp, pre-drill and screw...




A jig we use for production that's easily adjustable (again, using spacers to align arm negates need for tape) is as follows, and makes quick work of it that can also be used onsite...

 

I am not going through all that for just a few drawer faces, the jig I posted is very fast. If I made all of the cabinets and was in the shop that would be fine but onsite in a finished kitchen no thanks. Just yesterday I had to work on 24 or so cabinet doors and 15 drawers and the housekeeper is cooking all sorts of crap. I was working around cooked carrots and cauliflower, they knew I was coming but that was not going to stop her.

 

Eye 'em up, clamp 'em, pin 'em, pull the clamps and check. You can tap them to perfect before the pins let go. Drill when they're perfect.

 

I might not be picturing the goal correctly and I don't deal with this kind of thing but I was thinking you could use the location of the pulls to anchor it from the outside, then have a lined up hole to bore for pulls.

 

The drill bit might catch the previous holes on the drawer boxes and move the drawer front. I was pretty much hitting all of them anyway.

 

Rockler drawer face clamps.

Worst part about them is getting them back in the box. Like a mind teaser puzzle. You know they fit because they came in that box, but how?

 

You are not kidding
I got them back in once and could not do it again, so they sit in a bigger drawer with my knob jig