Some things just aren't worth the risk.
Our standard practice is to engineer the deck as a free standing structure, or extend the support back to the house wall, with the brick removed.
As a professional you can't risk the risk of attaching to a loose facade. It's not just the sheer issue of support, but the pull-out risk as well, brick just doesn't have it.

-Matt

 

If you go free standing then cross brace the thing. Once again posts 2 feet out with lags to the veneer is exactly what you dont do anywhere. You will pull the veneer off.

If you post that close to the house the posts need to get as deep as the house footing.

 

Noticed that here that if I'm within 5ft of house you have to be as deep as house footing.

 

We have run into this several times and it can be a little confusing even for some bulding depts. [I typically have 10 to 15 different building depts. in the metro area to try to keep straight throughout the year] For example, one fine building dept. here requires footings along the house wall at 2ft out even though the 'book' says any footing within 5 ft of foundation needs to be same depth as foundation.

I think that different circumstances like project location, house condition, building dept. guidlines and etc. can effect the best way to approach things but here are a couple of ideas for you:

Something we have done in the past, which may or may not work in your case, would be to drop down to the foundation and bolt a ledger into that and then just post up to the other ledger/flush beam on the outside of the brick. An engineer detail and stamp is a good idea.

Another thing we have found that works well, is to have our engineer spec it out for bolting through the veneer and into the rim. Our engineer feels good about this method all day without DTT2's. Take the drawing and stamped letter to the building dept and you should be home free. We get this done for 3 or 4 hundered bucks max and that usually includes a site visit from the engineer to inspect and discuss all of the available options.

 

we dig all the post 12" diameter x 48" deep and bury the post in the ground, lots of lateral stability.
steve scholl

 

That's one thing the inspector said were very important were the post holes. Ours are double that diameter and depth dependent on footing depth. Do you do the same size dia hole no matter of beam Span or joist span?

We can't use 12" dia footings for even a 5x5 deck. 12" seems pretty small for a deck to sit on.

 

6' joist span 6' beam span lots of posts, no deflection from over spanned joist etc.,
steve scholl

 

couldnt do that around here even if we wanted to. 90% of the homes here have walkout basements and having posts set on 6ft centers everywhere sure would play havoc with the walkout area.

 

I would lose projects left and right if I told people that there would be posts every 6'...

We consider ourselves custom builders, in other words whatever the client wants we can achieve... (if the money is there) quite often minimizing posts is critical to my customers, they don't want it looking like a forest under their deck.

 

Two Words:
Engineered Beams




-Matt

 

That's was an option I gave him if spans didn't work out correctly. I have never used them but I'm sure I should be able to get them local.

 

I'm installing 5" ledgerloks through the ledger, and stucco, with no issues, as long as you find teh studs and use a high torgue 1/2" drill to drive them.

ML

 

If you don't me me asking how do you flash the ledger with stucco?

 

According to DCA6-09, no attachment to or through brick veneer is allowed. The deck must be free-standing. If your AHJ has adopted DCA6-09, then that is what you are up against. There are two separate issues here:

1, attaching to brick veneer is not allowed because brick veneer is an exterior finish system, not a structural component. it lack the pull-out and sheer strength required for a ledger board attachment.

2, bolting through the brick into the rim board is not allowed because the bolt would be too long going through the brick plus the air space, then into the rim board. It would bend under load, damaging the brick veneer, and ultimately failing in bending.

Keep in mind that I've never actually built anything, including decks, I faked my way to a General Contractors License, all my knowledge is book learning, I not actually a plumber, and I'm from California.

 

If you end up having to build a free-standing deck, helical piles can be a life-saver. You need to go down to undisturbed soil, no matter how far from the foundation your posts are. Obviously, right next to the foundation, you'll be going down usually 9 feet or more, hence the advantage of helical piles.

 

Screw thru stucco?
Attach to brick facade?


Excuse me for a moment, I believe there's a wall somewhere I need to beat my head against!
-Matt

 

Nice looking birddog, by the way

 

Actually I'm installing a ledger to to box in the eaves and putting 2 ribbons of chalking on the back of the ledger the IOR seems to like what we have done

ML

 

Bingo!

It seems that some people don't realize that house foundations get back filled and it's not undisturbed soil you're dealing with...

True, but in 10 years of rain and freeze/thaw cycles the ground is mostly settled. Around here it's typical for the foundation to be stuccoed and usually 3-5 years later the dirt has settled down 3-4" it all depends on how much water it gets exposed to. Water makes a great compactor, be sure of proper drainage if you choose to soak a yard (it'd be no fun to flood the basement)

 

I can't find any info at all on how to attach a ledger to my igloo. Part of the problem is the walls are curved. Anyone got any bright ideas :whistling

 

Is the ledger going on the inside or the ouside? Does it bear on permafrost? :laughing:

 

No permafrost. That's part of the problem, every spring it melts, every winter I have to build a new one.

 

IM thinking if you corbel the ice blocks you can create bearing points. There is always a way.

 

You are just plain fd dude

 

:laughing::laughing:

 

On homes inspection tonight they bolted through brick and through concrete block with about 20 inch carriage bolts.

 

You just gutta love that guy.

The little ear ring is real cute dontch think ? On the other hand a tv show gig would pay real well.

JonMon

 

And I've seen mike holmes put drywall screws in simpson hangers on a deck before... no respect for the guy from me.

 

My architect said the other day build a lower ledger on the foundation wall all and stud up to the upper ledger and brace down to the bottom of the footings making sure your first line of post is within about 4 or 5 ft from the house this will solve down force and pull away from house,similar to what anther guy on here said.

 

dig your post, 48" deep, 2 feet from house, put post in ground on top of 6" of gravel and 10" thick slug of concrete, back fill, tamp the ground. This gives lots of lateral stability. 2 rows of post makes the deck free standing. Than there is no ledger requirement.
walkout or daylight window basements, with a 4' deep footing will easily, get to "virgin" soil. Anything closer than 2' will hit the drain tile and pea gravel fill that's around the house; anything further away from the house will require some sort of attachment to the house, 3' might work; it gets down to the front and back cantilever allowed wherever it is you are working. 2' away from the house, when properly placed, does not block precious windows and doors that some people think they will be staring out of from their basements.
steve scholl

 

dig your post, 48" deep, 2 feet from house, put post in ground on top of 6" of gravel and 10" thick slug of concrete, back fill, tamp the ground. This gives lots of lateral stability. 2 rows of post makes the deck free standing. Than there is no ledger requirement.
walkout or daylight window basements, with a 4' deep footing will easily, get to "virgin" soil. Anything closer than 2' will hit the drain tile and pea gravel fill that's around the house; anything further away from the house will require some sort of attachment to the house, 3' might work; it gets down to the front and back cantilever allowed wherever it is you are working. 2' away from the house, when properly placed, does not block precious windows and doors that some people think they will be staring out of from their basements.
steve scholl

The code here doesn't allow that - 3' is the minimum.

 

I believe if you check, that if you dig closer than 3' you must go to undisturbed soil, because closer than 3' is the backfilll. there are times when there is brick we have to dig 8-9' deep holes because they won't allow ANY ATTACHMENT TO THE BRICK
steve scholl

 

I believe if you READ what YOU wrote, you MIGHT be able to understand that what you said was WRONG...

dig your post, 48" deep, 2 feet from house, put post in ground on top of 6" of gravel and 10" thick slug of concrete, back fill, tamp the ground. This gives lots of lateral stability. 2 rows of post makes the deck free standing. Than there is no ledger requirement.
walkout or daylight window basements, with a 4' deep footing will easily, get to "virgin" soil. Anything closer than 2' will hit the drain tile and pea gravel fill that's around the house; anything further away from the house will require some sort of attachment to the house, 3' might work; it gets down to the front and back cantilever allowed wherever it is you are working. 2' away from the house, when properly placed, does not block precious windows and doors that some people think they will be staring out of from their basements.
steve scholl

You've contradicted yourself steve scholl.

 

When I build a deck on any structure where it has brick or stone or block i do a cantileever to the house. I make it freestanding and then have no flashing issues or structural integrety issues. The only time i attach to the house is on a siding home where i then take off the siding and attach properly and flash properly.